I went to the Greek city named best underrated winter sun holiday

“THIS can’t be it, can it?” I thought as I gazed up and down the road.

Instead of the ornate Athens streets I’d become used to, here were rundown second-hand electrical shops, smashed windows and crude graffiti.

I checked my phone map.

Sure enough, tucked beneath a battered cellar door, flush in the pavement, was the entrance to Diporto, one of the city’s best-kept culinary secrets.

Friends had tipped me off about this basement taverna in the Omonia district, serving real-deal Greek soul food and wine and, despite its dodgy entrance, it delivered in spades.

When most people think of Greek food, light salad dishes and dips spring to mind.

But in the winter months, the menu transforms.

Out go the chilled dips, replaced by steaming pots of revithia (rich chickpea stew simmered with olive oil and lemon), piping-hot tomato and potato soups, grilled fish straight off the coals, and thick slabs of crusty sourdough.

Sitting next to massive vintage wine barrels, sipping house red from a metal jug, I was in food heaven.

Family-run bakery Feyrouz was another amazing spot secreted away down an alleyway, the heady scent of cumin, za’atar and toasted pine nuts wafting into the street.

Its signature street food includes lahmacun, a crispy spiced flatbread and peynirli, sourdough pasties stuffed with halloumi and spices.

It’s no wonder Time Out crowned Athens the most underrated winter city break in Europe.

With temperatures back in the UK plummeting, I was grateful for the relative warmth of 15C during my January trip.

Winter had clearly chased the tourists away.

Gone were the packed market streets and endless crowds.

I was free to roam around the Acropolis unfettered by the masses that gather in the summer heat and able to really appreciate just how awesome a spot it truly is.

The columns of the Parthenon rise almost 50ft while the view from the hill it stands on is spectacular.

Without the summer heat haze, the crisp sunshine reveals Mount Lycabettus towering next to it and the Aegean Sea visible behind the urban sprawl that lies at its base.

Thousands of years on, this ancient wonder hasn’t lost its magic.

Such remains are commonplace throughout Athens, with Hadrian’s Library, the Ancient Agora and the Temple of Olympian Zeus just some of the amazing ancient spots you find yourself wandering around, just a stone’s throw from the city centre.

Even in January, cafe culture is alive and kicking.

Wrapped in fleece blankets, locals huddle under outdoor patio heaters, sipping hot rakomelo (honeyed spiced brandy) in the historic Plaka quarter.

I climbed Mars Hill to catch the sunset over the city — an experience that’s usually a shoulder-to-shoulder fight in July, but in winter felt like my own private viewing platform.

What’s more, hotels are far cheaper in the winter, the lack of demand stretching your money much further than in the busier months.

This gave me the opportunity to try out a hotel chain I’d never used before and I was once again pleasantly surprised.

Bob W, which stands for “best of both worlds”, markets itself as somewhere between a local homestay and a lifestyle hotel.

They team up with nearby restaurants and cafes to bring locally produced food to your door in the morning for breakfast, while partnerships with local gyms mean guests have access included in the price of their stay, as well as the chance to join in with yoga classes and other sessions.

For just £40 a night at Bob W Akadimia, I had a sizeable design-conscious modern apartment, complete with a comfy double bed, living room area, huge bathroom with rainfall shower and a kitchenette.

It’s very tech forward — with check-in and even access to your room done via mobile phone — and all apartments feature high-speed wifi and smart TVs.

I would definitely recommend spending a night or two with Bob, much as I would visiting Athens for a little winter break.

Its combination of hearty winter stews, incredible archaeology, warmer weather and quiet, tourist-free streets means you can have a wonderful time getting to know the city properly before the summer rush transforms it into almost a different place.