The Spanish seaside resort that is better in winter… quieter bars, cheaper 4* hotels and €2 bottles of wine

AFTER an indulgent Christmas, “no carbs before Marbs” was a non-starter (or indeed dessert) for me. 

A winter trip to the Costa del Sol resort might be without the beach clubs, but it is also minus the crowds and it’s usually still mild at around 16C, with six hours of sunshine daily. 

Despite Marbella’s reputation as a party town, this is the perfect time for a girly weekend away. 

The main attraction is the beautiful Old Town, where stark white buildings are brightened up with luminous Aperol Spritz signs and luscious green plants climb the walls. 

Uneven cobbled streets tempt you to explore at every corner – and that meant we stumbled across bar after bar, full of locals. 

There was Vinacoteca Castillejos, a simple bottle shop lined with walls of wine and a very friendly owner who let us sample a selection of his favourites. 

And, tucked down an inconspicuous alley, La Tienda proved to be another cosy affair with exposed brick walls and high-top tables. 

Thank goodness for my sommelier-trained companion, who never failed to find us the best vino blanco for just £5 a glass.

And to soak up the drinks, you can head to one of the many restaurants. Taberna La Niña del Pisto was my favourite – but blink and you’ll miss it. 

We pushed through ornate iron gates to squeeze on to a table at the bar in the ­cavern-like room. 

Plates and plates of tapas followed — the richest ratatouille topped with egg; the creamiest ham croquettes; the freshest sheep’s cheese. 

With a bill totalling just £40 (including a bottle of local wine), we almost questioned if they had forgotten half of our order. 

Shopping in Marbella is a laid-back affair in winter too, and we enjoyed browsing quiet shops for colourful dresses and woven hats. 

A trip to the beach club is out of the question — these don’t open until April at the earliest. 

Yet instead of selfie-taking celebs on the sands, you’ll spot brave surfers attempting to catch the waves. 

Relaxing on the beach was skipped in favour of exploring the city’s beautiful gardens. 

One of the most spectacular is Parque de la Alameda, where the towering trees and tropical plants make you feel like you are a world away from Spain. 

But, of course, a trip to Marbella is nothing without a quick bit of ­window-yacht-shopping at Puerto Banos marina. 

“Not quite to my taste, that one,” my friend said, pointing at a black boat double the size of the rest. 

Music-themed massage 

If you’re splashing out a few million on a floating bit of metal, she’s entitled to be a little fussy.

Just down the road is the Hard Rock Hotel, which let us live the rock star life on more of a budget. 

I could hardly resist asking for my own guitar to be sent to the room — one of the other amenities on offer in the hotel. 

Opened in 2022, it isn’t as sprawling as the brand’s other hotels — just two restaurants and two pools — but that makes it a lot more manageable to get around too. 

Being out of season did come with some downsides, with the specialty restaurant and pool closed. 

But stays are a fraction of the usual price. Rooms drop to as little as £171 in the winter months, compared to highs of £395 in summer.

We spent mornings doing yoga, easing into the day with light stretches and the smell of sandalwood incense. 

Lazy starts were practically encouraged at the hotel, with breakfast running until 11am. 

And what is a music-themed hotel without a music-themed massage? 

A visit to the hotel’s Rock Spa is certainly a unique experience, and I spent a relaxed hour below a hanging ­pendant light-cum-speaker, playing lo-fi tunes that vibrated my bed to the beat. 

And, of course, there is the Memorabilia tour where I learned about all the pieces on display throughout the hotel, from Beyoncé’s tour jacket to Blondie’s signed guitar. 

I could hardly resist asking for my own guitar to be sent to the room — one of the other amenities on offer in the hotel. 

Any dreams of becoming a pop star died quickly, however.  

My friend’s cackles drowned out the sound of my fingers clumsily plucking at the strings, resulting in a garbled, broken noise. 

But after a weekend of wine and laughter, Marbella is just as Marb- ellous in the winter as in summer. 

I certainly felt the warmth after a bottle of two-euro wine, at least . . .