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The European coastline Brits always forget about with Disney-like castle and seafront resorts

THE sun tickles my face as I gaze across the North Sea on a bright April day. 

And I can safely say that this amazing spot on Sweden’s west coast radiates a stillness that could relax even the busiest soul. 

The 240-mile Kattegattleden cycle route runs parallel to the coast, weaving past idyllic farm shops, guesthouses, fishing villages and sandy beaches from Helsingborg Credit: Getty
Varberg and its surrounding towns are a haven for seafood lovers, with Spiseriet — ‘the place to eat’ — living up to its name Credit: Supplied

Varberg, a 40-minute train ride from Gothenburg, is emerging as a proper wellness spot. 

One where holidaymakers come to escape life’s rigours and experience authentic Sweden, without the modern-day malls and restaurant chains that have taken over many major cities across Europe

Here, old-fashioned practices and a fuss-free way of life are still very much the norm — and I couldn’t wait to try them out. 

Throwing myself straight into the action, I head to the town’s Kallbadhuset — which translates as “cold bathhouse” — perched on the sea and reminiscent of a Disney castle.  

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Plunging into the water, I brace myself for the rush of cold — and the brief dip certainly wakes me up.  

Luckily, I can follow it up with a visit to the spectacular sauna, warming my limbs while I soak up the stunning view of the town’s pier. 

Of course, cold plunges are not the only perk of being by the sea.  

Varberg and its surrounding towns in Halland County are a haven for seafood lovers. One of the best places to sample it is Spiseriet.

This sauna with a spectacular view really is hot stuff Credit: Supplied
If you think Ikea’s meatballs are good then these will knock your socks off Credit: Supplied

Translated, it means “the place to eat” — and it certainly does its name justice.

Having worked at a string of Michelin-star restaurants throughout Gothenburg, charismatic host Peter Hallden and chef Martin Anneflod decided to open their own place in the picturesque Johnssons Gard. 

Diners sit in a renovated former stable and choose from a ridiculously fresh menu of classic Swedish grub.  

My Norwegian langoustines, Peter informs me, were in the sea four hours earlier, having been collected from nearby fishing village Traslovslage.

Make sure to try the falafel, too, made from local fava beans and pesto rustled up from local nettles. It is Michelin-star quality, but with a home-cooking feel to it and without the extortionate price tag. 

If you do want to push the boat out, however, then Restaurant Ang by the Astad Vineyard is a great spot to sample Michelin-star dining.  

At just over £100pp, its eight-course tasting breakfast is less eye-watering in price than its dinner and will keep you full for hours.  

Star dishes include waffle with a side of caviar, thick hash brown with fava beans and a breakfast cheesecake. 

Attention to detail is the name of the game here and doses of morning caffeine are served with a difference. Kenyan coffee beans are soaked in local lingonberries for 18 hours before being served as what looks like juice, but tastes like a refreshingly fruity iced coffee. 

After gorging on several hearty courses, I’m properly fuelled for my hiking trip in Steninge, 45 minutes south of Varberg. This area is filled with glorious trails, although Steninge, home to the Steningedalens nature reserve, has some of the best. 

An excellent path winds along the Hallandsleden coast, enabling ramblers to take in sensational views of the sea. Or if you prefer to cycle, stretching parallel to the coastal path is bike trail Kattegattleden.  

The 240-mile route begins in Helsingborg and weaves past idyllic farm shops, guesthouses and fishing villages as well as sandy beaches. 

Along the way is Steninge Kuststation, where I stop for vegetarian Swedish meatballs, mash and local lingonberries. If you think Ikea’s meatballs are good then these will knock your socks off. 

Co-owned by Frida Fernbrant and Martina Gustafsson, the guesthouse is a perfect overnight stop for cyclists — with tastefully decorated old-fashioned rooms, sea views, homely food and an outdoor stage for live music. 

Back at my base, the Varbergs Kusthotell resort helps me properly unwind and rest my weary legs.  

The modern facility sits just 52 steps from the sea, with spa facilities open late so that guests can enjoy an after-dinner swim. 

Three outdoor pools arc around the main spa building, which houses an indoor swimming facility in addition to two luxurious hot tubs. 

As I watch steam from the heated pool rise into the still night air, I can’t help but feel totally at ease. 

Wellness breaks don’t get much better than this.

GO: HALLAND, SWEDEN

GETTING THERE: Ryanair flies from Manchester and London Stansted from £30 return. See ryanair.com

STAYING THERE: Double rooms at Varbergs Kusthotell cost from £119 per night, based on two people sharing. See varbergskusthotell.se/en

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