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Our underrated county has some of the UK’s best pubs, quaint villages and LOADS of free things to do

WHILE Hertfordshire might not have beaches or be as famous as the Cotswolds, it has some fantastic hidden spots that are worth a visit.

So we’ve pooled all our expert knowledge – from three of the Sun’s Travel team who have lived there all their lives – for our favourite spots, from the best pubs to award-winning attractions.

Three of our writers – including Alice Penwill – have lived in Hertfordshire for years Credit: Alice Penwill

Best pubs

Ye Olde Fighting Cocks, St Albans

“On a hot day in St Albans, this is undoubtedly the place to head.

“The garden of this pub – which claims to be the oldest in Britain – backs onto the leafy Verulamium Park.

“On a quiet day you can hear the flowing water of the River Ver, one of few remaining chalk streams left in the UK.

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“Legend has it that there’s a hidden network of old tunnels that sit beneath this pub leading up to the cathedral on the hill – supposedly the monks of yesteryear would use them to sneak through.” Assistant Travel Editor, Sophie Swietochowski

The Sword Inn Hand, Westmill

“I’m lucky enough to have this pub right on my doorstep and I tend to stop in for a refreshing drink after a very long dog walk around the rolling fields that surround Westmill.

“The Sword Inn Hand has been a pub for over 200 years – and last year it was awarded the title of ‘Best pub’ in Hertfordshire by The Telegraph.

“Outside is a pretty patio area with wisteria that blooms in late spring and a grape vine canopy, as well a grassy area with picnic tables that look over the neighbouring farm.

“I struggle to find anywhere better to enjoy a glass of rosé.” – Travel Reporter, Alice Penwill

Ye Olde Fighting Cocks is a classic boozer in St Albans Credit: Alamy Stock Photo
Head of Sun Travel Lisa Minot and her husband are regulars at The Plough restaurant in Elstree Credit: Lisa Minot

The Boot, St Albans

“This Grade-II listed boozer is small, wonky and wonderfully charming. Sat at the edge of the cobblestone high street, next to the clock tower, pints flow all weekend and picnic tables spill out into the streets on sunny days.

“It’s slap bang in the city centre and hosts a mix of locals as well as passersby who have wandered in after browsing the Saturday market stalls.

“Make sure to stay for food – the Mexican themed menu of beef shin tacos and salsa tots keeps the regulars coming back week after week.” – Assistant Travel Editor, Sophie Swietochowski

The Plough, Elstree

The Plough in Elstree has just reopened after a multi-million pound refit. The pub has a huge garden with views over the countryside and offers all-day dining and drinking.

“There’s all the classics on the menu for the bar and beer garden from beef and ale pie to smashed burgers.

“The newly-created Stables restaurant is coming soon – offering elevated classics and seasonal specialities.

“There’s also a newly-renamed bar area paying tribute to one of its most famous customers.

“Alfred Hitchcock declared it his favourite watering hole while filming at the nearby British International Pictures studios in the 1930s and the newly refurbished space has lots of film compromises.” – Head of Sun Travel, Lisa Minot

The Silver Cup, Harpenden

“Foodies will want to make a beeline for the Silver Cup, voted one of the best gastropubs in the country and with a place in the Michelin guide for its hearty British grub.

“This family-run joint has a friendly atmosphere and serves a mighty fine roast dinner.

“Sunday dishes include lamb merguez scotch eggs served with sriracha yoghurt and impossibly juicy meats piled next to salt baked carrots, Yorkshire puds and duck fat potatoes.

“The head chef has spent his time in some of the UK’s top kitchens like Auberge du Lac.” – Assistant Travel Editor, Sophie Swietochowski

The Waterside Inn, Ware

“I love the High Street in Ware, it’s peppered with independent shops and coffee spots.

“And the best bit is that when you get to the end of it, you’ve reached The Waterside Inn.

“The pretty pub sits on the river and has a huge outdoor seating area with plenty of tables and fairy lights to add ambience in the summer evenings.

“You might even see a swan or two bob past while enjoying a pint or glass of wine.

“They don’t scrimp on food either, you can pick up a full English breakfast for less than a tenner (which isn’t bad in this day and age).

“There’s also lots of lunch options, Sunday roasts, simple options for the kids. And don’t forget to bring the pooch along as it’s a dog-friendly spot too.” – Travel Reporter, Alice Penwill

The Waterside Inn in Ware is a lovely riverside spot Credit: Alamy
Tewinbury Farm is a popular weekend hangout spot and has a hotel too Credit: TripAdvisor

Best Hotels

Hanbury Manor, Ware

“Live your best Bridgerton life with a stay at the classic country house hotel, Hanbury Manor.

“This late-Victorian country house was built in grand Jacobean style and sits within 200 acres of Hertfordshire countryside.

“Inside, it’s period drama heaven with towering wood-panelled libraries, open fireplaces and stone archways.

“Guests prefer rooms in the main house over the modern wings, with high ceilings, four- poster beds and views of the Jack Nicklaus championship 18-hole golf course.

“The full-English buffet breakfast is a crowd pleaser, served in the manor’s formal, sun-drenched ground floor rooms.” – Head of Sun Travel, Lisa Minot

Tewinbury Farm Hotel, Tewin

“Tucked away in the leafy village of Tewin, this sprawling hotel feels a very much like a countryside members club.

“It’s spread across a staggering 700 acres with a number of rooms in the converted farm buildings at the main hub, while a short drive away you’ll find a set of lakeside lodges with individual jetties that lead out onto the water.

“There’s also a huge house that can be hired for weekends or weddings.

Tewinbury is so much more than just a bed for the night, though. The whole hotel is a hive of activity: movie nights in one of the barns, pop-up dinner parties at the on-site allotment where a chef whips up a barbecue feast of freshly plucked veggies and local meat.

“Make sure to check out the on-site farm shop too, selling homemade local treats and titbits.

“And don’t forget to pick up a map from reception highlighting all the great walking routes on your doorstep.” – Assistant Travel Editor, Sophie Swietochowski

Sopwell House, St Albans

“The spas are undeniably the highlight of this glamorous hotel, buried in St Albans countryside.

“There are two in total: Cottonmill Spa, which anyone staying at the hotel can access, and The Club at Cottonmill, which is for members-only or hotel guests staying in Corner, Mansion House, or Mews Suites as well as those on special spa breaks.

“Order a cocktail to your outside pool lounger or sweat it out in the panoramic sauna which has floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking trees.

“As for the hotel, it’s a rather fancy spot – so rooms come with a premium price tag.

“That doesn’t mean they’re not worth it, though. All have an elevated countryside feel to them with crisp white linens and glossy tiles in the bathroom.

“There’s an on-site brasserie, a few bars and a pan-Asian restaurant – try the miso-glazed black cod.” – Assistant Travel Editor, Sophie Swietochowski

Alice takes her dog for walks over the fields in the town of Buntingford Credit: Alice Penwill
Therfield Heath is another popular walking spot in Hertfordshire Credit: Alice Penwill

Best walks

Buntingford

“Hertfordshire is a county that lends itself to countryside walks – they are anywhere and everywhere.

“Spending my teen years and early 20s living in Buntingford, I spent a lot of my time trudging over fields walking the dog.

“One of my favourite routes is across the rolling fields between Buntingford, Aspenden and Westmill.

“It’s a long trek, but worth it for its incredible views – not to mention the tearooms and pubs you find along the way.

“Some of the best time of year to take it on is spring when the fields are filled with sweet little lambs.” – Travel Reporter, Alice Penwill

Tring

“There are some stunning loops around the charming market town of Tring and up into the Chiltern Hills.

“Make your way from the main hub or train station, past the rows of old Tudor houses in the village of Aldbury, and across the fields leading up to Ivinghoe Beacon.

The view from up here is pretty spectacular and if you’ve already ticked off Warner Bros Studio Tour here’s another Harry Potter string to add to your bow.

“This grassy hill was used as a filming location in the Goblet of Fire movie – eagle-eyed fans will recognise it as the location of the portkey (a boot) for the Quidditch World Cup.

“There are plenty of interconnecting trails so you can adjust your hike to your ability level.

“Make sure to reward your efforts with a slap up pub dinner in town – The Greyhound Inn does an excellent roast.” – Assistant Travel Editor, Sophie Swietochowski

Therfield Heath, Royston

“Growing up in the area, Royston is ideal for a long walk with its grassy hills (which are wicked to slide down in the sledge when it snows).

“There are woodlands too and a lots of pathways which guide walkers around the area and more importantly, around the golf course.

“At the end, head to The Heath Cafe Bar for a drink, snack or even a tasty lunch.” – Travel Reporter, Alice Penwill

You’ll pass through the village of Aldbury on the way through Tring Credit: Alamy
Knebworth is home to a huge manor house Credit: Alamy

Best tiny villages

Letchmore Heath, Watford

“The picture-perfect village of Letchmore Heath is a great spot for a lovely lunch after a walk around nearby Aldenham Country Park with its walking trails and petting farm featuring cows, goats, sheep and alpacas.

“The village green with its traditional duck pond surrounded by timber-framed cottages may look familiar to film fans.

“With Elstree Studios not far away, it was used as a set in many a film including the 1960 sci-fi horror classic Village of the Damned and as a backdrop to the classic BBC romantic comedy As Time Goes By, starring Dame Judi Dench.

“And that isn’t the village’s only celebrity link. On the edge of the village sits Bhaktivedanta Manor, a spectacular 78-acre estate with mock-Tudor manor house that was bought by Beatle George Harrison and gifted to the Hare Krishna movement.

“Today, it’s one of the most prominent Hindu temples in the UK and welcomes tourists to admire the beautiful gardens, organic farm and peaceful George Harrison Memorial Garden.

“Don’t miss a meal at the one village pub, the Three Horseshoes. It’s recently had a huge revamp and serves elevated modern British pub food right on the village green.” – Head of Sun Travel, Lisa Minot

St Pauls Walden, Hitchin

“So tiny and unassuming, not many locals know about St Paul’s Walden unless they accidentally stumble upon it.

“The village has just one pub – luckily it’s a really good one – serving typical British pub fare in a fuss-free setting, overlooking some fields. Make sure to try the beers on tap as this spot currently holds the Eric Watson Award for Services to Real Ale.

“The crown jewel of the village, however, is undoubtedly St Paul’s Walden Bury, a grand stately home nestled among flowering shrubs and ancient trees.

“This grand 18th century property was the childhood home of Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother and features the most pristine gardens which sre open to the public on certain days of the week (£8 entry).

“Sprawling across 50 acres, with woodland walking trails aplenty, the grounds could easily be the setting for a whimsical fairytale thanks to the vine draped pergolas and rustic statues dotted about the place” – Assistant Travel Editor, Sophie Swietochowski

Panshanger Park, Hertford

“This 1,000 acre green space is ideal for those who want to walk on the quiet side. There are tranquil river walks along the Mimram – one of Hertfordshire’s rare chalk rivers.

“Stroll under  ancient oak trees- keep an eye out for the Panshanger Great Oak, believed to be the oldest oak tree in England.

“There are a variety of wildlife trails and interpretation boards along the way that tell you more about the local habitat.” – Head of Sun Travel, Lisa Minot

Lisa loves strolling through the pretty village of Letchmore Heath Credit: Alamy
The village of Ashwell has classically English-looking houses Credit: Alamy

Graveley, Hitchin

“Most visitors will likely drive through the quaint village of Graveley if they’re going between Hitchin and Stevenage.

“But it’s important to stop and take a walkabout because it really is beautiful.

“Tucked behind the Waggon & Horses pub – which serve up a mean roast dinner and tasty lunches, is the village pond.

“It’s quiet and the pond is surrounded by pretty stone houses and cosy cottages with pretty flower gardens.

“There’s not much to do here other than enjoy the scenery and take a stroll, but isn’t that what village life is all about?” – Travel Reporter, Alice Penwill

Knebworth, Stevenage

“The ancestral home of the Lytton family, Knebworth has been known in more modern times for its A-lister concerts and Hollywood filming.

“The relatively modest red-brick Tudor manor which welcomed Queen Elizabeth I as a guest was transformed in the 1840s by Edward Bulwer-Lytton into a spectacular Gothic fantasy castle bristling with spires, dorms and stone gargoyles.

“Thanks to its dramatic architecture, it has featured in many blockbuster movies including Batman, Beauty & The Beast, The King’s Speech and The Mummy Returns.

“And of course, the sprawling grounds have hosted some legendary pop gigs, including Led Zeppelin’s final UK show, Queen’s final live concert with Freddie Mercury and Robbie Williams playing to a record-breaking 375,000 fans over one weekend.

“For day trippers, there’s so much to see and do. Families can brave the Dinosaur Trail deep within the Wilderness Gardeen with its 72 life-siuze prehistoric creatures.

“Right next door is Fort Knebworth, a gargantuan adventure playground with slides, zip wires and splash zones.” – Head of Sun Travel, Lisa Minot

Ashwell

“Being right on the cusp of Cambridgeshire, I often forget that the village of Ashwell is actually in North Hertfordshire.

“It’s the perfect spot for a family day trip, thanks to the springs, old-school bakery, pretty pastel cottages, half-timbered houses and enormous church in the middle of town.

“The springs are one of the most popular spots in the summer months where you’ll see kids in their wellies hopping in and out of the freshwater.

“There are stepping stones across the banks if you don’t want to get your feet wet, but lots fall victim to slipping on the algae and tumbling in – something I have had first-hand experience of.

“A trip to the village isn’t complete without stopping into the local bakery, the Days of Ashwell – founded in 1741 it’s where you can pick up pastries, cakes, sausages rolls and freshly made sandwiches.” – Travel Reporter, Alice Penwill

Sophie is a fan of the Harry Potter tour at Warner Bros Studio in Leavesden
Hitchin Lido is the place to be during the summer months Credit: Google maps

Biggest Attractions

Hitchin & Letchworth Lido

“When the weather heats up – like it did in June of this year – we all need a place to cool down. And where better than the local lido?

“There are only four in Hertfordshire, but I’m lucky that two are very close to me, and 10-minutes from each other.

“Both Hitchin and Letchworth Lido are huge outdoor swimming pools with both lane and fun sessions throughout the day.

“Around the pools are sunloungers too and Letchworth has a grassy area where lots pack a picnic for their session and sunbathe too.

“Tickets aren’t overly expensive either at around £8 each and £4 for children.”

“While these are my local lidos, there are two others in Hertfordshire, Ware Priory and another in Hemel Hempstead.” – Travel Reporter, Alice Penwill

Warner Bros Studio Tour, Watford 

“The Warner Bros Studio Tour in Leavesden gets bigger and better every year.

“The attraction is currently celebrating a staggering 25 years since the first Harry Potter movie was released and it’s the BEST place in the UK for fans of the wizarding franchise to soak up some early Hogwarts nostalgia.

“Even if you’re not into the books or films, it’s hard not to be blown away by some behind-the-scenes magic.

“On top of admiring the old sets, visitors can jump on a broomstick in front of a green screen to capture a video of them soaring through the skies just like Potter himself.

“And they can wander through the Hogwarts Express, stop by the canteen for a foam-topped butterbeer or even step on board the knight bus.

“The gift shop is every kid’s dream with actual Chocolate Frogs and Bertie Botts Every-flavour Beans for sale as well as wizarding cloaks and wands.” Assistant Travel Editor, Sophie Swietochowski

Hitchin Lavender, Hitchin

“In the springtime, there’s one field on the outskirts of Hitchin that turns a vibrant purple.

“I’m lucky enough to see the vibrant violet colours from the train window on my commute home throughout the week.

“The attraction is so beautiful that it’s even been compared to looking like Provence in France.

“It’s popular with Instagrammers of course, and while I am a tad judgey, I don’t think there’s a single person that walks through the flowers without taking advantage of the photo-perfect spot.” – Travel Reporter, Alice Penwill

Lavender fields in Hitchin have been compared to looking like Provence in France Credit: Alamy
The Aerodrome Cafe is where you can enjoy a coffee and watch planes take off Credit: Google maps

Free things to do

Splashlands, Welwyn Garden City

“Part of the award-winning Stanborough Park, this fabulous free attraction is perfect for those sun-soaked days in the school holidays.

“With wet and dry play areas, it’s the water fun that scores highly. A paddling river meanders through a splash pad and water play area with 67 jets that shoot up to 1.5metres in the air with pads that activate water sprays when they are jumped on.

“For non-water fun there’s a nautical-themed adventure playground with a large pirate ship and play equipment for children of all ages.

“There’s a small kiosk serving hot and cold drinks, snacks and ice creams as well as changing facilities.” – Head of Sun Travel, Lisa Minot

St Albans Cathedral Tour

St Albans Cathedral is a truly remarkable piece of architecture that doesn’t cost a penny to visit.

“You can also book onto a free guided tour where you’ll learn about its fascinating history in depth and its strong links to the Roman era.

“Did you know that it is the only cathedral tower in England to be built using Roman bricks? Or that it was the home of Britain’s first ever saint (whose shrine can still be seen today)?

“Make sure to pop by the on site cafe too, where head chef Graca is continually baking up a storm.

“Visit around Easter time to get your hands on the first ever hot cross bun – the modern day chefs whip up batches in their hundreds using the original recipe founded by a monk in this very cathedral.” – Assistant Travel Editor, Sophie Swietochowski

A hot cross bun is a must after a tour of the St Albans cathedral during Easter Credit: Sophie Swietochowski
A guided tour of St Albans Cathedral is completely free Credit: Alamy

Quirky things

Royston Cave, Royston

“Royston Cave isn’t a place that you just stumble upon, but growing up there every local knows about it.

“It’s a place most people my age went on a school trip in primary school and is worth a visit if you’re into history.

“The cave was discovered by accident in the 1700s during the instillation of a bench, when locals explore it they later found lots of markings and drawings etched into the walls – which are still there today.

“You can book a tour or learn more about it at the Royston Museum which is a short walk up the road.” – Travel Reporter, Alice Penwill

BattleKart London, Saint Albans

“For any amateur racers, BattleKart in St Albans really puts driving skills to the test.

“It beats heading to the pub with your mates as you can actually get into a go-kart and race them around the track.

“There are six courses to choose from too so you can go back time and time again for something new.

“They have different themes too from Saturday night fever to jungle – and you can even play virtual pool and football from the go-kart too.

“Games start from £20 during the week and £25 during the weekend each lasting 15-minutes.” – Travel Reporter, Alice Penwill

Elstree Aerodrome Cafe, Elstree

“This unique spot is perfect for those who love a bit of plane-spotting.

“The Elstree Aerodrome Cafe as it suggests in the name, sits right next to Elstree Aerodrome.

“It’s open seven days a week serving up breakfasts, lunches and snacks all with an epic view of the airfield so you can watch planes take off and land over a full English.” – Travel Reporter, Alice Penwill

Scott’s Grotto, Ware

“You might expect to find shell-covered grottos near the sea – that would make sense.

“But the largest is actually in Ware – it’s described as an ’18th century chamber’ and is covered in thousands of shells, flints and coloured glass.

“It’s cheap to enter too – adults for £2 and children go free.” – Travel Reporter, Alice Penwill

Shell Grotto is an unusual find in the town of Ware Credit: Alamy
The Grove is a swanky five-star hotel in Watford Credit: TripAdvisor

Local Loves & Hidden Gems

The Glasshouse at the Grove, Watford

“This swish five-star hotel is home to the UK’s fanciest buffet – so come with an appetite and wear your stretchy pants.

“Within its Glasshouse restaurant you’ll find an almighty spread that has to be seen to be believed. This is no ordinary assortment of  delights, however.

“There’s caviar, lobsters, and a mighty carvery section of juicy meats as well as wood fired pizza and salads that you’ll actually want to eat as opposed to piles of limp lettuce leaves.

“None of the food is average or tastes mass produced either – delicate sushi is hand-rolled in the kitchen, while the homemade pasta is as fresh as it gets.

“There’s plenty for those with dietary requirements, too, and don’t get us started on the dessert section. Let’s just say, you should make sure to save room for the chocolate fountain and scoops of ice cream.

“The buffet costs from £74 mid week and from £94 at the weekend.” – Assistant Travel Editor, Sophie Swietochowski

The Glasshouse is inside a fancy five-star hotel Credit: Unknown
Dig into some tasty treats at the Waffle House Credit: TripAdvisor

The Eastern Brasserie, Borehamwood 

“The Eastern Brasserie has been serving up authentic Indian cuisine in Elstree village since the mid-1980s.

“While the interior may not have changed since – think booths with pink velvet upholstery and old school chintzy tableware – the food has kept locals returning for decades.

“It’s my go-to for a takeaway as the food is always hot, fresh and well-flavoured without the processed ingredients you get in other Indian takeaways.

“But look past the decor and eat in and the food is taken to another level, arriving at your table on sizzling hot platters. My favourites are the King Prawn Puri – fresh, plump seafood in a flavourful tomato sauce accompanied by the fluffiest of puri (£4.65).

“And for mains, the Vegetable Thali (£12.95) is enough to feed two. I go for that or the Peshwari Chicken in a flavourful, fresh sauce (£9.95).

“We always get orange slices and aniseed sweets complimentary with your bill and the friendly owner has kept us going back for decades.” – Head of Sun Travel, Lisa Minot

The Waffle House, St Albans

“This gorgeous little spot in St Albans sits within an old grade-II listed building with a set of outdoor tables overlooking a stream. It’s not just the pretty setting that attracts a hefty crowd, though.

“The menu revolves entirely around waffles (hence its name) and is open for breakfast and lunch, as well as dinner on the weekends.

“Savoury options include red lentil and coconut dal, served with a waffle for dipping, and buttermilk fried chicken (on top of a waffle) with homemade slaw and an array of sauces.

“Try to save room for a dessert waffle, or just order one to share for the table – you won’t regret it.

“To avoid the queues, visit early in the morning for breakfast or later in the afternoon, after the peak lunch rush.” – Assistant Travel Editor, Sophie Swietochowski



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