It’s only 15 minutes from a major tourist city, but it couldn’t be more different.
It’s the perfect place for a sunny day out(Image: Nicola Roy)
When a heatwave arrives in the UK, you have to go to the beach – it’s an unspoken rule. There are so many beautiful spots to choose from, and if you like a bit of shopping and some great food alongside your sunbathing, one place should be on your radar.
It’s not far from a major capital city, but it has a completely different vibe. I first visited Portobello last year, and I’m astounded I didn’t make the trip sooner.
With a main street brimming with independent shops, the best chips you will ever eat, and great transport links, it’s genuinely a perfect spot if you’re keen to stray from the beaten track.
The bus ride from Edinburgh city centre lasted just 15 minutes, dropping us right in the heart of the town, and it was immediately obvious that this place was something special.
Predictably, our first stop was making straight for the seafront for a relaxed walk along the shoreline. The weather was wonderfully bright and crisp, and it was so refreshing after the hour-long train trip from Glasgow.
Portobello’s coastline extends for two miles, featuring a Victorian-era esplanade and sweeping views over the Firth of Forth. Since it was a sunny Sunday morning, the location was fairly bustling, with plenty of families out walking and dogs charging about on the beach.
The very first thing that caught my eye about the beach was how spotless it was. It’s plain to see that the residents of Portobello, or ‘Porty’ as it’s affectionately known, take enormous pride in their surroundings.
In 2024, Portobello was crowned the second-best coastal town in the UK by JoJo Maman Bebe, and its beach has also been recognised with a Keep Scotland Beautiful award.
After a relaxed walk along the shoreline and building up a hearty appetite, we decided it was time to find somewhere to eat. The seafront at Portobello beach is packed with a vast selection of dining options, from enormous pizza slices at Civerino’s to brunch and coffee at The Beach House.
Many of these offer al fresco seating, letting you dine virtually on the beach itself, and it was wonderful to see so many visitors taking full advantage of that. We decided to try Shrimp Wreck, a seafood outlet offering a small but tempting menu. This street food vendor appeared on BBC’s My Million Pound Menu and has built its reputation on fish finger sandwiches – even reaching the finals of the Birds Eye Fish Finger Sandwich Awards in 2017.
Unsurprisingly, that’s exactly what I went for, and it’s easy to understand the hype. Battered flaky fish fillets, mushy peas and the best chips I’ve ever had, all served in a soft roll, was perhaps the messiest meal I could have chosen, but I wouldn’t change a thing.
Afterwards, we properly ventured into the high street where our bus had dropped us off. It sits directly behind the seafront, and while it wasn’t quite as heaving as the beach, there were still plenty of folk wandering around – and crucially, a decent selection of shops open.
One highlight for me was The Portobello Bookshop, a charming independent bookshop packed with novels, cookbooks and loads more. The interior was bright, welcoming and comfortable, the kind of venue where you could happily spend hours browsing without getting bored.
They also run events, including Q+A’s with authors, so it’s worth looking at their schedule if you’re thinking of visiting.
Cove is another essential stop for anyone who loves gift shops. This place was crammed with every imaginable trinket, from Jellycat toys to candles and shampoo bars, plus gorgeous cards and irresistible chocolate treats as well.
Portobello’s high street might not be the biggest, but it’s undoubtedly one of the nicest I’ve seen. There are more food and drink spots here, alongside pubs and even an Aldi, so you’re hardly going to be short of choices.
One place we didn’t get round to visiting, which I’m keen to come back for, is the swim centre. Here in Portobello, you’ll find an authentic Victorian Turkish bath, one of just 11 in the UK, plus a gym and fitness studio, so this is definitely on the agenda for our next visit.
If you’ve never ventured to Portobello, it really is the perfect spot for a weekend break – even when it’s not sunny. Its closeness to the bustling city of Edinburgh makes it ideal if you’re wanting to flee the city rush and spend some time eating, drinking and relaxing by the sea.