The unassuming market town in a corner of Herefordshire where Gloucestershire meets Wales was the inspiration behind Britain’s first ever travel guide
It’s an unassuming market town, nestled in the crook where Herefordshire meets Gloucestershire on the Welsh border.
I’d never have guessed that Ross-On-Wye is the birthplace of British tourism, and THE holiday destination of the late 18th and early 19th century. Nevertheless, given there is some suggestion we are experiencing a revival of romanticism (think Wuthering Heights and Bridgerton rather than the latest rom-com), it wouldn’t surprise me if there’s a surge of soul-seekers retracing the steps of their forbears across the UK’s most beloved natural spaces.
And what better way to explore Ross-on-Wye for myself than from the Hope & Anchor. Located right on the edge of the River Wye, it was just outside this inn that the boats would set off on their tour. So it seemed like the perfect place for my toddler and I to stop for the night as part of a trip organised by Visit Herefordshire.
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Before we checked in for the night, we set off to explore a town peculiarly located on the northern edge of the Forest of Dean, less than 10 miles from the Welsh border, and six miles from Gloucestershire.
Stepping onto the streets of Ross-on-Wye, it doesn’t take a great imagination to be transported through time and see what inspired the Reverend William Gilpin to write Britain’s first ever travel guide. Published in 1782, Observations on the River Wye centres on a boat tour he took down the River Wye from Ross-on-Wye to Chepstow. The words of the pioneer of the “picturesque” adventure were so captivating that mimicking his journey soon became the fashionable thing to do – especially during the Napoleonic Wars, when taking part in the Grand Tour across continental Europe became impossible.
As market towns go, Ross-on-Wye is a fairly well-sized one, with a population of around 11,000 according to the 2021 census. However, 250 years after it was first made famous, it still carries an old-world charm, littered with stunning black-and-white timber-framed buildings and cute little independent shops where you can while away the afternoon browsing.
After working up an appetite, taking in the street scenes surrounding the prominent Market House building in the town centre, we trekked towards the High Street looking for Truffles Deli, which Visit Herefordshire had suggested we nab a quick bite from. Unfortunately, the highly-rated eatery promising delicious sandwiches, soups and cakes is closed on Sundays. Instead we followed directions on a chalkboard pointing us towards Maggie’s Place a few doors down.
Cosy and inviting, incense wafted through the interior as we stepped inside, admiring the open beams and brickwork. The café – which also welcomes four-legged friends – has only been open a number of months, and the owners have just started introducing a more expansive menu, including sandwiches and cakes.
“We’re trying to be completely locally sourced”, the owner tells me, saying the ham in the mouth-watering sandwich I bite into is from the delicatessen around the corner. He says they are working on bringing in crisps made nearby, and the bread has been locally made too.
And if the taste is anything to go by, lunch is terribly under-priced. I cannot get enough of the garlic spread in my ham sandwich, offering a smooth and creamy edge. I’m secretly grateful that my toddler is only interested in the packet of crisps I bought to share.
But the thing that impressed me most about Maggie’s is the coffee. I’m not exactly a coffee snob – my mornings start with instant – but if I’m buying a coffee, I do have certain standards. The owner serves me a Café Au Lait – his version of a flat white – and it’s the first coffee I have bought out in at least two years that I haven’t had to add sugar to. Rich, smooth, and bitter without the burn, I’ve finished it all too quickly.
After lunch, we take a wander up the hill towards The Royal Hotel. Some 200 years ago, this is where we would be staying before embarking on our boat trip as per Gilpin’s guidebook. And it’s easy to see why – the massive historic inn stands proudly above the town, boasting commanding views of the River Wye set to take your breath away.
Built on the foundations of a 13th-century Bishop’s Palace, the Greene King hotel has 42 bedrooms and can host weddings. But for now, we just admire the views before heading around the corner to The Prospect.
Nestled in the pleasure garden at the back of the graveyard of St Mary’s Church, the Prospect was laid out around 1700 by John Kyrle – also known as the ‘Man of Ross’. From here, you can see the famous horseshoe bend in the Wye and as far west as the Black Mountains.
Settling in for the night
If you look directly down from The Prospect, you can see the Hope & Anchor, just a small car park’s width from the water’s edge. Recent rainfall has seen the River Wye swell, pushing against its banks and saturating the paths and borders.
We check into our room for the night, a stunning ensuite with an impressive chandelier-type lighting, which captivates my little girl even more than the cartoons on the television. A little love seat adds a romantic touch to the room, which has gorgeous views of the river. I’d love to come back in the warmer months. After settling in, we wander downstairs to the dining room.
While it appears to be a cosy, neat, and rather unassuming little pub, there is nothing ordinary about what you put in your mouth at the Hope & Anchor. Even the wine I ordered for myself as a little holiday treat far exceeded expectations. I asked for a medium glass of red wine – and instead experienced a blast of rich, powerful flavours echoing with plum and black fruits with a woody finish (Vina Cerrada Rioja, £5.5 a small glass).
I ordered from the specials menu to start – whipped camembert brulee (£8) served on a bed of fig chutney, toasted sourdough and topped with hazelnut and apple. If you’re a fan of Camembert, this is not something to be missed. The tartness of the chutney offset the creamy richness of the cheese, topped with the satisfying crunch of the hazelnuts and apple sprinkled on top. The chutney lent an earthy flavour, and the whipped texture of the camembert offered a delightful change to both its cold and melted states.
This was followed by the garlic-and-thyme-roasted supreme of chicken (£19.50). Out of the kitchen came a massive, steaming plate of a roast dinner, served with garlic and rosemary roast potatoes, braised red cabbage puree, glazed parsnips, roasted heritage carrots, herb and apricot stuffing, seasonal greens, Yorkshire pudding and red wine gravy. I even had a generous bowl of cauliflower cheese on the side.
Now, as everyone knows, the true test of a roast dinner is in its potatoes. After all, no one can ever beat your mum’s, right? Although the Hope & Anchor certainly has given her a run for her money. Rather than the rubbery roasties we regularly forgive pubs for, these were perfectly crispy on the outside, and steaming and fluffy on the inside, representing the gold standard all roast potatoes aim for.
Partnered with beautifully sweet roasted vegetables, offset with the leafy seasonal greens, and one of the biggest Yorkshire puddings I’ve ever seen on a plate, there was no way I was going to finish the meal. The cauliflower cheese also made the perfect addition, not too cheesy, not too creamy, but just perfectly balanced and toasted on top. I couldn’t resist a second helping despite my groaning stomach.
Even the chicken nuggets and chips served with baked beans to my daughter were artistry on a plate. Succulent and juicy chunks of battered chicken served with crisp, hand-cut chips, I regretted not having room to help her finish them.
But what made the meal so truly special is how well we were looked after and attended to. From the forgiving fellow guests who stole smiles from my little girl to the attentive staff, it was a warm and welcoming atmosphere. I was particularly taken with the way staff overlooked the fact that my little gremlin left most of her meal and was more taken with licking tomato ketchup off a spoon. But then again, she is two, and clearly has no taste.
Gilpin’s footsteps
After a restful night, we popped into the neighbouring café for breakfast, eager to stock up for what I hoped would be another active morning. The Pavilion, which is also part of the Hope & Anchor, is a bright, welcome space with a chic, timeless interior.
It was the perfect setting to tuck into my eggs Royale for breakfast – and yes, the yolk was delightfully gooey with a delicious crunch from the toasted muffin.
We then made our way to the river’s edge, determined to follow in Gilpin’s footsteps despite the swollen Wye and saturated paths. I downloaded the Museum Without Walls App – Ross-on-Wye’s virtual museum, which uses AR (augmented reality) to impose pictures showing what a particular location would look like in days gone by. I point the app at the sign just outside the Hope & Anchor, and in an instant I can see the boats from days gone by preparing to set sail down the Wye towards Chepstow.
With determination, we set off, with every intention to at least reach where Wilton Bridge crosses the river some half a mile away, despite my daughter’s insistence on making friends with a couple of rather tame swans, and an alarming game of chase which took her frighteningly close to the swollen banks of the fast-flowing river.
Unfortunately, the path was simply too waterlogged to get even that far. Instead, we turned on our heels, considering taking a stop in the popular Riverside Inn in Wye Street as part of our return. This was the only downside of our trip – but one which sadly could not be helped.
Hopefully, next time, my companion will have long enough legs to make the journey on her own feet, too, perhaps when the weather is slightly less boggy.
What you need to know
- The Hope & Anchor offers lunch and dinner options as well as overnight stays, while next door, The Pavilion restaurant and bar offers breakfast and cocktail masterclasses. There is also The Hut on the river’s edge, serving cakes, hot drinks and ice creams for those on the go. A one-night stay at the Hope & Anchor costs from £90 based on two sharing on a Bed and Breakfast basis. Find out more or book your visit here.
- Find out more about Ross-on-Wye on the Visit Herefordshire website.
- Follow Gilpin’s Wye Boat Tour by downloading the Museum Without Walls App here
- Maggie’s Place at 24 High Street is open 10.30am-4.30pm Monday to Wednesday, Friday and Saturday, and from 12.30pm to 4.30pm on Sundays. Find out more here.
- The Royal Hotel is open all year round with breakfast served between 7am and 11am Monday to Friday and 8am to 12pm on weekends. You can also eat in the evening until 9pm. It’s also dog-friendly. Find out more here.
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