I went to the beautiful city home to wellness spas, amazing sushi

WE all know that reindeer pull Santa’s sleigh – but did you realise his entire fleet of magical-hooved creatures is female?

“We know this because of their horns,” Diego Osorno tells me, pointing towards Vixen, one of Grouse Mountain’s resident herd.

At that moment, she decides to depart her hay-filled lodge and gently plod off through the snow, tilting her antlers towards the shimmering Christmas lights in a well-timed performance.

Males shed their antlers in the winter months, while females cast theirs in summer, the knowledgeable Diego shares. He is one of a few rangers here at Grouse Mountain, a 4,100ft tall peak that towers over the city of Vancouver, on Canada’s western coast in British Columbia.

This magnificent landmark will be celebrating its 100th birthday next year, and for those already planning their 2026 wintry getaway, few places offer more Christmas cheer, aside from Santa’s home in the North Pole.

A small “skating pond” sits just beyond the reindeer shelter, where kids can twirl on ice in front of snow-topped fir trees listening to festive music echo between the trunks.

Elsewhere on the peak, you can trudge through fresh white powder on a snowshoe experience, weaving through the frosty woodland which, at this time of year, is dripping in twinkling lights.

These lights are almost as magical as the ones glimmering up from the city of Vancouver at night.

Birds-eye views of the city are spectacular from the cliffside restaurant, The Observatory, and you can soak them up while you dive into fondue — a bubbling pot of rich, gooey cheese served alongside thick slices of charcuterie, pickles and hunks of bread for dipping.

Of course, there’s skiing and snowboarding, too. In fact, visitors will have their pick of three mountains for snowsports when staying in Vancouver, which is partly what makes this region one of the best in the world for night skiing.

You can hit the slopes in a mere 25 minutes from the city centre, including the cable car journey. And Vancouver’s breathtaking nature doesn’t end with its mountains. At the foot of the snow-capped cliffs lies a huge harbour, filled with ships, fishing boats and humming seaplanes — and plenty of wildlife, too.

Winter isn’t the season for spotting whales, but you’re still in with a chance of catching something emerging from the waters, especially if you decide to take a stroll around the seawall of Stanley Park.

This is Vancouver’s answer to Central Park in New York, except it’s roughly 20 per cent larger, boasting 1,000 acres of lush green space bang in the centre of a skyscraper city.

A pal had spotted seals here only a few days earlier, but during my morning run, I only spied black squirrels (cool, nonetheless) and a seagull cracking into a crab that it had plucked from the water for breakfast.

Messy but fun

That sight hammered home just how fresh the grub here really is.

With a huge body of water on its doorstep, wild salmon is, unsurprisingly, very popular in Vancouver. It’s also a staple in the diets of the indigenous communities around these parts. Sushi is big, too. In fact, it turns out Vancouver is where the California roll was invented, supposedly by Japanese-Canadian chef Hidekazu Tojo, although there is some debate over this.

One of the best places in the city to sample this is Miku Waterfront, near the cruise port. This restaurant has rightly earned a place in the Michelin guide for its extremely high-quality dishes at prices that won’t break the bank.

I polished off clean plates of oshizushi, a sushi block made from layered rice and slabs of fresh tuna or mackerel, dolloped with a smattering of saffron as well as perfectly-crafted nigiri, which I was instructed not to dip in soy sauce as the seasoning had already been meticulously balanced.

Right they were.

An extremely filling lunchtime Shokai consisting of ten pieces of traditional sushi, rolls and nigiri with appetisers and miso soup, will set you back just under £25, in a swish setting.

Asian influences can be seen throughout a large number of restaurants in Vancouver due to a wave of Cantonese and South Asian communities immigrating to the city over recent years. Anh And Chi at the northern end of Main Street serves immaculately executed Vietnamese classics, including DIY rice paper rolls that you construct at the table. Messy but fun.

During the festive period, however, you can’t go wrong with a slap-up Christmassy meal within a sparkling globe-style dome at H Tasting Lounge.

Order the 24-hour braised beef shank, which is lit on fire tableside, the smoky smell of rosemary and meat engulfing the dome.

Cold plunge pools

If you simply can’t decide what tickles your fancy, book on to a food tour with foodietours.ca around the public markets of Granville Island.

This industrial area has become a hub for arts and food, and more than 50 independent vendors flog their homemade delights to not just tourists and locals, but A-list celebs, too.

Pop star Harry Styles once bought Hobbs Pickles’ entire stock of sweet pickles in one day. I had to resist doing the same after sampling their dill flavour.

Vancouver-born actor Seth Rogen, on the other hand, regularly makes a beeline for Lee’s Donuts, which sells the classic ring-shaped bake in all manner of flavours, from cinnamon to honey-dip.

For more snacking with a festive twist, there are two Christmas markets in the city. The main Vancouver Christmas Market (entry from £3.80), offers a more commercial atmosphere with wooden stalls selling all the classics.

Meanwhile, the Shipyards markets on the North Shore are a little more crafty and free to visit, serving quirkier titbits like pickled spruce tree tips.

They taste like capers, if you’re wondering.

I was also grateful for the city’s emphasis on wellness after gorging one too many poffertjes (mini Dutch pancakes).

Spas have become a large part of the culture here and the two-hour thermal circuit at Circle Wellness will ensure every ounce of stress is extracted from your body through specially designed hot pebble floors, Himalayan salt chambers and cold plunge pools.

From my private shipping container, I watched the steam billow from my cedar tub, clashing with the air’s chill.

Some things are just made for winter. And Vancouver is one of them.