I tried interrailing around Europe as a mid-lifer

AN Interrail adventure around Europe was once a rite of passage for many a British teen in the days before low-cost flights.

Now, a growing number of mid-lifers are taking to the rails to repeat the journeys of their youth, or even experience it for the first time.

But with age comes the need for a little comfort — picking a hotel instead of a hostel and a wheelie case over a rucksack.

The principle the same, though. Buy a rail pass, plot your route — and adios.

With the kids grown up, my husband and I joined the rail revolution to have our very own Interrail fun.

The beauty of a rail pass is that you can destination-hop for little or no extra cost, so we created a 12-day itinerary visiting several places we had never been to. First-class, too, as it’s only £90 more.

We start with a ten-hour train journey from London to Milan, rattling towards the French Alps and Italy in plush, extra legroom seats.

An overnight stay is followed by a whizz round Milan’s hotspots — including its impressive Duomo and glitzy shopping gallerias — then we’re back on the rails, snaking through the valleys and vineyards of northern Italy’s Trentino region towards the town of Riva on Lake Garda.

Framed by Alpine foothills, this 32 mile- long lake (Italy’s biggest) is idyllic — as is our base, the family-run Garda Suite Hotel, where every room comes with a balcony. Ours overlooks the hotel’s heated swimming pool as well as the lake.

The next 72 hours are spent admiring Lake Garda from in it, on it and above it.

From the Ponale Path, a trail carved high into the mountainside, there’s a sheer drop to the water which shimmers below, a magical turquoise.

Less knee-trembling are the vistas from the colourful town of Riva’s Apponale Tower (mind your head as you climb its 165 steps) and Bastione funicular.

Entry to both, as well as local transport, is included in the Garda Guest Pass, free to hotel residents.

Other highlights include saffron risotto at La Capannina Pizza and Grill, wine-tasting at the local Comai vineyards (their Merlot’s superb) and a sunset sail-boat excursion.

Skipper Alesso explains how Lake Garda is 350m deep and home to freshwater sardines and giant pike.

“Any monsters?” I ask. “Yes, Bennie.”

He shows me a picture. Not a patch on our Nessie.

Then, we’re back on the rails and watching four countries roll past the window — Italy, Germany, Austria and then our next destination: Slovenia’s Lake Bled.

Alpine Lake Bled differs from Garda. It’s much smaller and circled by a four-mile walking trail. There’s a fairytale island at its heart with a church.

You can hire a boat to explore (£26 for 90 minutes) although the rowing is tough on arms. Happily, the hot tub at our Bled Rose spa hotel (no hostels for us) eases aching limbs.

While Bled is prominent on the tourist and Interrail trail, Slovenians have been keeping neighbouring Lake Bohinj (11 miles away) to themselves.

Surrounded by the Julian Alps and Triglav National Park, signposts keep leading us — slightly alarmingly — towards a “slap”. But it’s a relief to learn that this word is Slovenian for waterfall.

We follow a two-hour trail toward thunderous Slap Mostnice before lazing on one of the lake’s empty beaches.

The real taste of Slovenia, however, comes when we move on to capital Ljubljana and try strukli — cottage-cheese filled steamed dumplings. They’re served warm, sweet or savoury and the sugary ones are delicious.

Afterward, we climb to the castle on a hill for a panorama over the city’s jumble of steeples and turrets.

Our trip includes three ten-hour journeys, seven travel days, 14 trains and one missed connection. No matter, we take the next one. Some trains require seat reservations costing extra, but most don’t.

Working it out is part of the Interrail experience. Free wifi is the norm and everything’s done on the Interrailing app — no physical tickets. My only complaint is that time passes far too quickly.

Soon, we’re circling back toward France and our penultimate destination of Strasbourg, whose location close to Germany’s border lends it a Germanic feel.

The street signs are bilingual and Riesling’s the local wine. We enjoy a glass over dinner at our boutique Leonor Hotel — an 18th-century former police station which has a grandiose internal courtyard.

Round the corner is Strasbourg’s gothic Cathedral de Notre Dame which, for 400 years, was the tallest building in Europe.

A lung-busting 350 steps lead up to its viewing platform, from where we enjoy grandstand views over the city’s half- timbered Alsatian houses on backstreets criss-crossed by waterways.

Our biggest high, however, comes in Paris, where our trip ends. The new 4H hotel (built for the 2024 Olympics) towers over the city and is close to the Stade de France stadium where footie fans can enjoy tours.

Our room on the 35th floor affords a jaw-dropping view of the River Seine and Eiffel Tower. And on floor 40 is the highest swimming pool in Paris.

On the Eurostar back to London we toast an Interrailing trip which covered 2,509 miles, averaged 20,000 steps a day and crossed six borders.

Every moment felt fresh, exciting and youthful. Best lesson learned? To roll back the years, you must head for the rails.