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A local’s guide to Milan: the city’s best restaurants, culture and green spaces | Milan holidays

Born in Milan in 2000, Paralympic swimmer Simone Barlaam, is a 13-time world champion who won three golds and a silver medal at the 2024 Paris Olympics. He’s a torchbearer and ambassador for the Milano Cortina Winter Olympic Games, which run from 6-22 February (the Paralympic Games run from 6-15 March) at sites across Lombardy and north-east Italy (with events such as speed skating, figure skating and ice hockey in the city). He also worked as a graphic designer for the games.

Barlaam grew up in Milan and lives in NoLo (North of Loreto), a vibrant, artistic neighbourhood. “I’ve lived all over the place, so I can take you around the city and the places that belong to my heart,” he says. Here, he chooses his favourite spots, beyond obvious sights such as the Duomo, La Scala opera house and the glossy Quadrilatero della Moda fashion district.

A view over Parco Sempione and Sforza Castle in the heart of Milan. Photograph: Andrei Domanin/Alamy

Food

If I’m training, there’s this beautiful pastry shop next to my pool that I go to with my teammates after a long, hard session: Pasticceria Grossi in Piazzale Udine. It’s the best coffee place.

I like Panificio Storico Vailati on Via Vitruvio because the pastries are lovely, and it’s welcoming and warm – they treat you as if they’ve known you for the last 30 years.

Pizzeria da Mimmo near Chinatown has a special place in my heart because my parents always used to take us there for lunch. It’s a very small place and the pizza slices are very thick, soft and fluffy, like a cloud. Every time I go there, I feel like a kid again.

When I was a student, studying at the Politecnico di Milano, I would go to Grano e in Viale Romagna, where the food is very cheap and very fresh. If I want to treat myself I go to Ratanà on Via Gaetano de Castillia, it’s the restaurant of my friend and chef Cesare Battisti. It has traditional dishes like mondeghili, a type of fried meatball made of leftovers, and I think it does the best risotto in town. I also love a Vietnamese restaurant called Vietnam Mon Amour, where I used to go as a student. It’s tiny and the food is amazing.

Neighbourhood

Simone shopping in Milan’s Chinatown. Photograph: Laura Coffey

Via Paolo Sarpi, in Chinatown is a must, and comes alive at night. There are so many places to eat – restaurants as well as amazing street food places. There are a few karaoke places too – it’s fun to go with your friends and just sing and make a fool out of yourself.

Fashion

Milan is the city of Armani, and there is so much of Giorgio’s legacy here. It’s an incredible honour to have developed a race suit with them. When Giorgio passed away, I went to the funeral and the queue of people there to say goodbye was kilometres long. That showed how much people love him and how his legacy affected this city.

Inspiration

Simone finds visits to Milan’s old aquarium fascinating. Photograph: PhotoFires/Alamy

The Acquario Civico di Milano, one of the oldest aquariums in Europe, was built in the early 20th century. There are sculptures of the sea and fish around the building. Part of the aquarium is outside, with freshwater fish; most of the displays are dedicated to Italian aquatic environments, though inside there’s a little tropical aquarium too. What I love about water is the sense of freedom it gives me, because obviously, for a person with a disability, I’m very clumsy and not very graceful on land – but in the water, I’m fast and can be agile. It feels almost like flying. I could stay for hours just watching a fish swim in an aquarium, it’s mesmerising. I have this passion that I can’t really express in words about swimming creatures, they give me a kind of peace.

Green space

Milan is full of little green parks, but Parco Sempione is one of the best and it’s connected to the medieval Castello Sforzesco, the triumphal arch Arco della Pace and the excellent Museum of Triennale. It has so many cool events – live music, concerts, exhibitions – they are displaying original Olympic posters until 15 March.

Accessibility

Most of the time, Milan is an accessible city. It’s flat, and with the upcoming Olympic and Paralympic Games, there have been many renovations in the city. For example, they’ve finally built an elevator at the metro stop in front of my house. But obviously we cannot stop here and we need to always improve because like every part of Italy, Milan is full old buildings that need to be made more accessible.

Culture

Maurizio Cattelan’s L.O.V.E. artwork outside Milan’s stock exchange. Photograph: Eden Breitz/Alamy

Obviously, Milan is well known for its culture and museums but there are plenty of hidden gems, too. One of them is the L.O.V.E. statue by Maurizio Cattelan, a contemporary visual artist. This statue in front of Milan’s stock exchange is a giant middle finger, and not many tourists go to see it. It’s interesting: it’s made of marble but is so different to classical buildings. It’s as if it’s saying, “screw you” to the Milan stock exchange building, which was built during the Ventennio (Italy’s fascist dictatorship).

There are many other museums that I love, such as the Mudec, the Museum of the Cultures of Milan. The Museum of Natural History is tiny but it’s in a beautiful building in a beautiful park. At the weekend it’s crowded with kids. I used to be one of those kids, I’d go there all the time. Outside they have lifesize models of dinosaurs. It’s amazing to think they used to roam on the land that became Milan back in the day.

Laura Coffey was a guest of Crowne Plaza Milan City and YesMilano

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