One thing unites the British more than anything else. It stands there in plain sight but is rarely spoken about. We may try to hide it; we may not admit it to ourselves; but under the surface, deep down, in the nicest possible way, we are all a little odd. Not in a sinister way, just eccentric, weird, unpredictable and downright wonderful. As a nation we have an artistic and creative zest and boffin-like inventiveness. In fields of innovation, we led the tech world with some of our brave and crazy inventions. Even our landscapes are damn weird, with some of the oldest, most mysterious and diverse geological oddities in Europe, and plentiful legends too. I spent years exploring the enchanting strangeness of Britain, discovering follies, eccentric public art, strange buildings, mysterious ruins and eerie landscapes for my Weird Guide, which features about 300 of these curiosities. Here are some of my favourites.
The Yoxman, Suffolk
In a field not far from the A12 in Yoxford, Suffolk, stands the Yoxman, an artwork of colossal proportions. At 8m (26ft) high and made from bronze, it took creator Laurence Edwards and his team four years to make. The figure is a personal tribute to Suffolk, the artist describing it as a visitor from the past, both from the land and of the land. The result, finished in 2021, is astounding – a fully grown adult barely makes it to the top of his shin, as the Yoxman dwarfs even some of the surrounding trees. From Yoxford village, take the path opposite the shop and follow it through the grounds of the hall to the statue.
Little Italy, Gwynedd
The late Mark Bourne, a chicken farmer, was obsessed by Italy, visiting as often as he could, filling notebooks with sketches of buildings and architecture. When he returned to his remote cottage on the Corris hillside in Gwynedd, Wales, he and his wife aimed to recreate what he had seen in their garden. Both worked on the creation, named Little Italy, well into their 80s, with models of everything from the Leaning Tower of Pisa to Florence’s Duomo. Although Bourne’s old garden is strictly off-limits to passersby, the surrounding wall is relatively low and the buildings are large enough to see from the path. From the Corris Institute, turn left up the hill along the lane then follow a footpath on the right after the youth hostel for about 100m.
Mannakin, Lincolnshire
Mannakin Hall near Grantham feels like an eerie plastic graveyard. Situated down a narrow Lincolnshire lane, it was set up by Roz Edwards in 2008 when she realised that most mannequins were discarded after no more than five years of service, and began to acquire those destined for landfill. Once repaired or cleaned up, they are hired out and at any given time there are about 15,000 mannequins on site; most are unclothed, but some are dressed up in Halloween costumes or strange outfits. As a working business, Mannakin Hall isn’t open to the public on a walk-in basis but you can prebook and visit as a group, attend one of the regular open days or even stay overnight in your camper van!
White Scar, Yorkshire Dales
On the west side of the Ingleborough summit in North Yorkshire, just south of the ancient Roman road, lies one of the country’s most remarkable areas of limestone pavement, known as White Scar. This extraordinary landscape formed during and after the last ice age, as massive glaciers scraped away the surface. Millennia of weathering broke down the soft alkaline stone, revealing intricate miniature canyons, or grykes. These deep fissures have become like terrariums, providing a habitat for rare plants that are normally at home in dark woodlands.
Library, Isle of Arran
The woodland Library near Levencorroch on the Isle of Arran, Scotland, is a unique tourist attraction, a cabin with an interior resembling a 3D giant visitors’ book. Built by the woodland’s owner, Albert Holmes, using trees blown down in a storm, the cabin is covered with drawings, poems, messages, words of wisdom and notes from all over the world. Ranging from playful to profound, the papers, which are now about 25 layers deep, are stuck in every conceivable space, including the ceiling. It feels like entering something from a Michel Gondry film, or a strange nest left by a literary woodland creature. Pick up a map at the Eas Mor Ecology cafe, east of Levencorroch, and follow a steep gravel path to the waterfall and on to the library. It’s a 25-minute walk.
Sultan the Pit Pony, Mid-Glamorgan
Measuring close to 200 metres from his nose to the end of his tail, Sultan the Pit Pony sits on the site of the old Penallta colliery north of Caerphilly. Mike Petts used 60,000 tons of coal shale rock to create the sculpture, which he built in the late 1990s to honour the thousands of ponies put to work in British mines throughout the Industrial Revolution. It’s close to Parc Penallta Ponds, with its wonderful wildlife and walking trails.
Painshill Follies, Surrey
Inspired by the culture, paintings and architecture he experienced during his grand tour of Europe, aristocrat Charles Hamilton began transforming his country estate – Painshill in Cobham, Surrey – into something between a work of art and a garden in 1738. Alongside a temple, gothic tower and lake, he created one of the most spectacular follies in the country, employing grotto builder Joseph Lane to construct a semi-naturalistic cavern with sparkling stalactites made of minerals such as feldspar and quartz. The park fell into ruin in the 1940s, but the local authority acquired it in the late 1970s and though much has been restored, work continues. The crystal grotto was completed in 2013, with builders making every effort to make it look like the original, using paintings of the grotto.
Rock-cut tombs, Lancashire
There is a local legend that, after being shipwrecked, Saint Patrick was washed ashore and set up a chapel at Heysham, Lancashire, sometime in the fifth century. Considering Saint Patrick was also supposed to have been shipwrecked on Ynys Môn (Anglesey), there may be some doubt about this story! Regardless, during the eighth century a chapel was built in honour of the saint. The remains of this chapel still stand, along with eight rock-cut tombs in one group of six and another of two.
Blackchurch Rock, Devon
Around 320 million years ago, the great continent of Gondwana collided with Laurasia (present-day Europe, Russia, North America and parts of Asia). The force of the impact was so great that it pushed up the rocks of Blackchurch Rock near Clovelly, Devon, into its present formation (we know the date thanks to fossils found in the stone, including Goniatites). Over time, tidal seas shaped Blackchurch further, carving out the great arch. It’s a 30-minute walk north west along the coast path from Clovelly village.
The Tilted Globe, Highlands
Joe Smith, creator of The Tilted Globe at Knockan Crag in Assynt, north of Ullapool, first learned how to dry stone in 1961, at the tender age of 11. By the time he was 19, dry-stone walling had become his means of earning a living. Over time, he stopped seeing walls as only functional and instead recognised how the stacking of stones could be beautiful, appreciating their potential for creating artworks. He has collaborated with Andy Goldsworthy on a number of projects around the world, including Slate, Hole, Wall at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Edinburgh. The Tilted Globe is an independent work made from moine schist local to Knockan Crag. The area is of geological importance, as the ancient rock has been moved through tectonic action about 43 miles (70km) west to remain above the line of the younger rocks. It’s a short walk on marked trails from the turf-roofed hexagonal visitor centre.
This is an edited extract from Weird Guide by Dave Hamilton, published by Wild Things Publishing (£18.99). To support the Guardian, order your copy from guardianbookshop.com. Delivery charges may apply. Follow @davewildish