I’ve never visited anywhere like it.
They may enjoy some of the country’s most stunning coastal views but for residents in the UK’s seaside towns and villages life by the sea comes with less visible challenges. While tourists might nip in for a day trip here and there, for people who spend their lives here factors such as over-tourism, anti-social behaviour and limited job opportunities can contribute to lower levels of happiness and wellbeing.
But when I visited this unique fishing village in north Devon I was greeted by nothing but warmth and happiness, with locals ready with a smile, a friendly greeting and a genuine sense of hospitality. After paying £10.90 just to get into Clovelly, I instantly felt at home. It is a truly unique village for a number of reasons. Perched on a 400ft cliff, the village is entirely owned by one man, John Rous.
The 75-year-old, who inherited the village from his mother, Countess Mary Rous, in 1983, is the sole landowner and operates every property in Clovelly. Everyone who lives or works in the village rents their home or shop directly from Mr Rous.
All prospective tenants are interviewed to ensure they fit the community, ensuring the harmonious atmosphere is maintained without any disturbance.
And unlike other villages and towns across the UK there is a fee to enter Clovelly. Visitors must pass through a visitor centre and pay £10.90 for adults and £6.25 for children aged seven to 16. You may think this strange, especially at a time where millions of Brits face soaring bills and increasing supermarket prices, but there is a very good reason: the money does not go to lining the pockets of the owner but is instead redistributed in the village, including on the upkeep and maintenance of homes.
The car-free village has around 250 residents living in 80 cottages. It also welcomes around 150,000 tourists every year — and everyone seems happy. As soon as I arrived and strolled down The Hobby Drive and onto the cobbled High Street, I felt welcome. There were no strange looks from locals, wondering who I was or how long I would be there.
Instead, people gave a passing smile and were happy to stop and chat. It was clear they revelled in the peaceful environment, with their lives centring around tradition and respect. It was the same in both The Red Lion Hotel, an 18th century four-star inn that stands on the quay alongside the stunning harbour, and the Bay Tree Cafe, which sits at the top of the village. Every member of staff I encountered had a smile on their face and couldn’t do enough for me.
The village’s strong sense of community became even more apparent when I spoke with residents. They were quick to ask whether I was enjoying my visit and were always eager to recommend other locals to meet or places to explore. As the village is set on steep, cobbled streets, all vehicles are prohibited which ensures the air remains clean and the atmosphere quiet. There is no such thing as rush hour traffic, car crashes or miles of congestion in Clovelly.
All of the homes in Clovelly are occupied by full-time residents who rent from Mr Rous. This means that, unlike some seaside resorts, there are no empty holiday rentals or abandoned hotels.
It’s easy to describe the views in any seaside town or village “amazing” but this truly is the case in Clovelly. The cobbled streets wind down to a serene ancient harbour which offers sweeping views over Bideford Bay. It’s fair to say that Clovelly is unlike any seaside village or town that I’ve ever visited. It is truly unique and one of the happiest places I have ever been.
