Trek

‘I glamped in the Andes on a Machu Picchu trek and climbed a cliff with 1,310ft glass lunch pods’

From a terrifying cliff climb, to trekking in the Andes, and trying (and failing) to get a selfie with a llama, our writer Sara Wallis had an extreme adventure in Peru

Clinging on to the side of a vertical cliff, 980ft high, I tried desperately not to look too far up or down – either view was terrifying. I’d not been in Peru for very long before I found myself literally on the edge, with my comfort zone far away on solid ground (ideally at a hotel spa).

Just below me, the 69-year-old Canadian lady in my group mused out loud that her travel insurance probably didn’t cover a ­pensioner scaling an iron ladder up a rock face. But here we all were, nearly at the incredible glass pod ­restaurant hanging off the top of the mountain, and a very long way from the bottom.

Having arrived in the stunning ancient South American city of Cusco a couple of days earlier, I was on a G Adventures group tour with like-minded travellers, all keen to tick Peru and the Inca wonder of Machu Picchu off their bucket list. We had been lulled into a false sense of security on day one with a peaceful exploration of the Pisac ruins, taking in staggering scenery, a rich history and curious llamas. But there is nothing more bonding for strangers than the Sacred Valley’s Via Ferrata (iron path), which I assumed was a gentle incline but turned out to be a thigh-burning, stomach-churning lesson in “doing your activity research”.

Grasping for the fixed iron rungs and at one point having to wobble across a tight-rope “bridge”, attached by a carabiner to a steel life-line, it’s no wonder G Adventures lists this as Your OMG Day. Video footage was immediately sent to my shocked kids. As a reward, we enjoyed a dizzying culinary experience at Skylodge, a transparent 1,310ft-high dining capsule. Travellers can – if they have nerves of steel – sleep overnight, but lunch was enough for me.

And we still had the small matter of getting back down. “Zip line or rappel?” asked the tour guide, as if he was offering tea or coffee. Hmm, launch myself off the ­mountain at speed or descend backwards from a rope? Abseiling down turned out to be another heart-stopping ordeal, but one I don’t regret for a second… although I did kiss the ground at the end.

Ancient Inca vibes

Having spent weeks examining my packing list, complete with deep critical analysis of water bottles and hiking socks, it’s fair to say I was keen to be prepared for my three-day hike to Machu Picchu. Rather than join the backpacking masses on the Inca Trail, G Adventures also offers an alternative, lesser-known Lares Trek option.

While it isn’t the exact route of the Incas, the Lares Trek takes in ­spectacular scenery and weaves through remote Andean communities. And this is the best bit – no one else was there… Mostly alone in this incredible landscape – unless you count alpacas, llamas and the odd sheep – we barely saw another human, let alone a backpacker. And which tourist wants to see another tourist? Not me.

Hiking past misty mountains, lagoons, valleys, waterfalls and glaciers, with falcons and condors flying overhead, this spectacular 20.5-mile trek is a hidden gem. Only me and Aussie traveller Biljana had chosen the Lares Trek, so for a few days it was just us and our guide Paulo – a man with the patience of a saint. “How many miles to go, Paulo? Please can you adjust my walking poles? Can we stop for another photo? Is it lunch time yet…” Ad infinitum.

Setting off from Ollantaytambo, the trek is shorter than the Inca Trail, but much higher, reaching the Pachacutec pass at 15,350ft on day two. You can’t help but feel the altitude, which makes the steep ascents even more challenging (the word breathtaking takes on a whole new meaning). But it’s worth the slow and steady climb to admire the snowy peak of Colquecruz at the top. Reaching the Lares Hot Springs at the end of the final day was a heavenly incentive – medicinal, mineral waters for those aching muscles.

The next day came the grand finale as we toured Machu Picchu, the 15th century Lost City of the Incas, perched majestically on a mountain ridge. Arriving on a scenic train from the town of Aguas Calientes, we wandered the site’s temples and terraces and saw the iconic Sun Gate. Spiritual, magical, historical – ­whatever you might make of it, the impact of the Unesco world heritage site is awe-inspiring.

Talk about in-tents…

If you’re going to do something, do it right and if that means a few home comforts, I’m here for it. Part of G Adventure’s Geluxe Collection, this premium tour offers intrepid adventure, but with a five-star twist. Have you still hiked to Machu Picchu if you’ve slept in a posh tent and eaten nothing but four-course restaurant-standard meals? Yes you have. Can anyone turn down a hot water bottle when you’re wearing five fleeces at night in the freezing Andes? I nearly cried with gratitude.

My hiking pal Biljana won’t mind me saying but neither of us are natural campers (hotels with walls and a bed, please). So our jaws dropped open when we saw our trek “digs”. Cots with air mattress, sleeping bag and blankets, with portable toilets and showers along the way, meant a proper rest to focus on the task at hand. Thoughtful touches included a little bag of hotel-style amenities, including shampoo and bug spray, while a team of porters (along with mules and donkeys) carried all our camping gear.

Chef Marco whipped up incredible meals along the way, from hearty porridge and soups to fresh fish, meats, salads and exquisite desserts including a celebration cake at the end. There was a glass of champagne waiting at the top of the highest peak, snacks on tap and hot coca tea to tackle the altitude and warm the spirits. The team would pack up our camp every morning, skip past us easily on the trail (cool as you like, hands in pockets, while we were puffing and panting), unload it all at the next location and create another oasis of luxury. On one occasion a mule did a runner and a porter went off in hot pursuit at dawn for several miles to lure it back. Heroes, legends, icons… and us? Happy campers.

Sweet potato

Mashed, spiced, baked, boiled, no matter what you’re eating in Peru, it will likely involve a potato, possibly even in your breakfast or dessert. Peru is renowned for potato diversity (more than 4,000 varieties) with a long history of cultivating the crop that goes all the way back to the Incas.

Quinoa, corn and trout are also Peruvian staples, while guinea pigs, or “cuy”, (cover your ears, pet lovers) are bred to be eaten as a delicacy on special and sacred occasions. OK, I bailed out of tasting a guinea pig wearing a crown at King Cuy, but I did get the chance to make my own empanada, a bit like a pasty, with a community in the rural village of Cuyo Chico in the Sacred Valley. By the time you’ve washed it down with a chicha morada, a spiced purple corn drink, you’re practically a local.

Drama llama

Llamas and alpacas have become the poster animals of the Andes. Commonly spotted on the trails, these iconic, gentle creatures will ­occasionally bother to turn their heads in your direction. Then, utterly bored, they will wander off just in time to ruin your selfie. By day four I could just about tell the difference – llamas are bigger, pack animals, while alpacas are fluffier, with a face like a teddy bear.

Speaking of which, a little footnote on that famous Peruvian bear, since everyone’s first question to me was: “Did you meet Paddington?” I did spot him waiting patiently by the train to Machu Picchu. I couldn’t tell you if he had a marmalade sandwich under his hat, but I was very glad to see this modest nod to the beloved bear, and not (yet) some awful tacky Paddington Land. Respect.

Book the holiday

  • Several airlines, including Iberia and British Airways, operate flights from London to Cusco via Lima with fares from £650 return.
  • G Adventures offers a nine-day Peru and Machu Picchu: Comfortable Camping on the Inca Trail (Lares Trek option), part of the Geluxe Collection, from £2,999pp with accommodation, meals, transport and guided tours. Flights extra. gadventures.com
  • More info at peru.travel

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‘It’s going to be a big, fat, beautiful wall!’: Trump’s words make his California climb an even steeper trek

Donald Trump says he can be the first Republican presidential nominee to win California since 1988, but his rhetoric on immigration, the environment and guns risks pushing the strongly Democratic state even further out of his reach.

In recent travels across the state, Trump has shown no inclination to modulate his language the way nominees normally do as they turn from their party’s primary toward a wider general-election audience.

Instead, he has emphasized positions that are not only out of step with independents and Democrats whose support he would need to carry California, but also with many fellow Republicans in the state.

“He’s reinforcing all of the negative stereotypes of the Republican brand that have been hurting us for 20 years, which is a peculiar approach to putting California back in play,” said Mike Madrid, a Republican campaign consultant in Sacramento.

At rallies in Anaheim, San Diego, Sacramento, San Jose and Redding over the last week, Trump has riled up overwhelmingly white crowds with his call to build a wall along the southern border and force Mexico to pay for it.

“It’s going to be a big, fat, beautiful wall!” Trump shouted to cheering supporters Thursday night in San Jose.

More than 7 in 10 Californians oppose building a border wall, according to a poll last month by the Public Policy Institute of California.

Though Republicans favored the proposal, they are a sharply diminished force in California elections, thanks largely to a GOP hard line on illegal immigration that has turned away the state’s growing Latino and Asian population. The party’s share of California voters has slid to 27%.

In San Diego last week, Trump deepened his trouble with Latinos as he attacked the judge overseeing a fraud lawsuit against Trump University, his defunct real estate program, calling the judge a Mexican and saying, “I think that’s fine.”

He went further Thursday and Friday, saying the ethnic heritage of U.S. District Judge Gonzalo Curiel, who was born in Indiana to Mexican immigrants, made it a conflict of interest for him to handle the case. “He’s a Mexican,” Trump told CNN. “We’re building a wall between here and Mexico.”

Bill Carrick, a veteran California strategist running the U.S. Senate campaign of Democrat Loretta Sanchez, called the initial remark “blatantly racist” and “blatantly stupid.”

“It just makes it harder for him to have any appeal to Latino voters at all – and a lot of other voters,” Carrick said.

Republican leaders have voiced similar concerns on a national scale. Senate Majority Leader Mitch McConnell of Kentucky said Thursday that he worries Trump might drive Latinos from the Republican Party the way GOP nominee Barry Goldwater did with blacks after opposing the Civil Rights Act during the 1964 presidential race.

McConnell, who has endorsed Trump, told CNN that Trump made a “big mistake” last week by attacking Republican Gov. Susana Martinez of New Mexico, the nation’s first Latina governor.

Trump spokeswoman Hope Hicks did not respond to a request for comment.

It’s going to be a big, fat, beautiful wall!

— Donald Trump, to cheering supporters in San Jose

Trump can be deft about calibrating his rhetoric at times, routinely muting some of his more controversial positions.

Apart from answering reporters’ questions, Trump rarely discusses his support for barring Muslims from entering the U.S., punishing doctors who perform abortions, overturning the Supreme Court ruling that legalized same-sex marriage, and deporting millions of immigrants in the country illegally.

Trump also refuses to answer questions about his demand in 2011 that President Obama release his birth certificate to prove he was born in the U.S.

And he rarely talks about his belief that climate change is a hoax, a topic he often raised on Twitter in the years before his run for president – and one that could cause him trouble in California.

On the eve of his California visit last week, Trump told a petroleum conference in North Dakota that he would withdraw the United States from the landmark Paris treaty to curb greenhouse gas emissions.

“In a Trump administration, political activists with extreme agendas will no longer write the rules,” he said.

But 8 in 10 Californians, including half of Republicans, viewed global warming as a serious threat to the state’s economy and quality of life, a Public Policy Institute survey found last year. And nearly two-thirds of Californians supported the state making its own policies separate from the federal government to address global warming.

At his California rallies, Trump has steered clear of climate change. But in Fresno, he mocked environmentalists, saying their misguided efforts “to protect a certain kind of 3-inch fish” were depriving farmers of sorely needed water.

It was a sharp break with the custom of California Republicans to use support for environmental protections to appeal to Democrats and the independents who side with them in most statewide elections.

The state’s last Republican governor, Arnold Schwarzenegger, made efforts to cut greenhouse gas emissions a cornerstone of his 2006 reelection campaign. Schwarzenegger also broke with conservatives in his party on immigration, supporting a path to citizenship for many of those in the country illegally.

When he was first elected in the 2003 recall election, Schwarzenegger also had advantages Trump will not: Most Californians thought the state was moving in the wrong direction, and they strongly disapproved of its Democratic leadership.

“That’s not the mood in California now,” said pollster Mark Baldassare, president of the Public Policy Institute of California.

Trump’s staunch opposition to gun control could also pose problems in the state, where polls have found most voters believe in stronger restrictions on access to firearms. At all of his campaign stops here, Trump has touted his endorsement by the National Rifle Assn. and accused his presumed Democratic rival, Hillary Clinton, of trying to abolish the 2nd Amendment.

“We’re going to keep our guns — don’t worry about it,” Trump told the crowd in Sacramento. “You need them.”

Beth Miller, a Republican campaign consultant in Sacramento, frets that Trump could cause long-term harm to GOP candidates in California who embrace his candidacy.

“It could potentially backfire for years to come,” she said. “I think there are going to be a lot of Republican candidates who are going to have to very delicately distance themselves from Donald Trump’s rhetoric.”

As for Trump himself, his prospects in California are grim, according to the latest USC Dornsife/Los Angeles Times poll. It found that 71% of California voters had an unfavorable impression of him, and Clinton would beat him in a hypothetical November match up by 26 points.

ALSO

Speaker Paul Ryan endorses Donald Trump

Clinton says Trump’s foreign policy agenda is ‘dangerously incoherent’

Just like Clinton, Obama has an argument against what Donald Trump says about foreign policy

[email protected]

Twitter: @finneganLAT


UPDATES:

June 3, 5:41 p.m.: This article was updated with additional remarks by Trump.

June 2, 8:09 p.m.: This article was updated with a quote from Trump in San Jose.



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David Ellison’s plan to rebuild Paramount: ‘Top Gun 3,’ ‘Star Trek’

Tech scion David Ellison and his leadership team at Paramount sent a message to Hollywood: A new era is underway.

Nearly a week after taking the keys to the battered media company, Ellison and his top executives met with reporters at the Paramount Pictures lot Wednesday to show that they mean business.

Ellison and his team will be based in Hollywood — not New York — and they plan to view the entertainment industry through a California lens by making big investments, leaning into technology and building on popular franchises, including “Top Gun,” “Star Trek” and “Yellowstone.”

Last week, Ellison’s Skydance Media and its backer RedBird Capital Partners closed their $8-billion takeover of the firm that includes CBS, Comedy Central, MTV Networks, Showtime and the Melrose Avenue movie studio.

“One of our biggest priorities is actually restoring Paramount as the No. 1 destination for the most talented artists and filmmakers in the world,” Ellison said. “Very simply, great filmmakers make great movies.”

Such a Paramount comeback would be long overdue.

The film studio has suffered from decades of under-investment, and was often bypassed by many of Hollywood’s biggest filmmakers. The studio plans to release eight films next year, but that’s too small an output to sustain a theatrical film business, Paramount executives said.

The plan is to nearly double the number of feature films to 15 and, and eventually, 20 movies a year.

Ellison, the 42-year-old chairman and chief executive, was eager to bury his days of being a political target, following the lengthy regulatory review of the deal and President Trump’s lawsuit against CBS for its edits of a “60 Minutes” interview with Kamala Harris last fall. Paramount settled the lawsuit last month, agreeing to pay $16 million.

Days later, CBS notified Stephen Colbert that it was ending his late-night talk show in May — prompting howls among some fans and raising speculation the show was sacrificed to appease Trump. CBS has said the decision was “purely” based on economics; the show has been losing money.

Programming will be created with broad audiences in mind, Ellison and his lieutenants said. Ellison said his goal is to move the company away from political divisions in an effort to reach a wider audience.

“One of the things I think is important is I don’t want to politicize this company,” Ellison said. “We’re an entertainment company first, and I genuinely believe if you’re breathing, you’re our audience. We want to be in the business of speaking to everybody.”

For Ellison, movies have been a lifelong interest. He recounted his days growing up when he, his mother and sister would go to the cinema or pick from their extensive home library of video cassette tapes.

He intends to “significantly scale” the amount of content the studio produces and has entrusted his longtime deputy Dana Goldberg and Josh Greenstein, a former Sony executive, as co-chairs of Paramount Pictures. The studio plans to concentrate on key intellectual property such as “Star Trek,” “World War Z” and “Transformers,” with Goldberg saying that “Star Trek” is a priority across the company.

Paramount executives are also interested in filmmaker-driven original films. Late last week, Paramount said it landed an original project called “High Side,” helmed by “A Complete Unknown” director James Mangold, which reunites him with actor Timothée Chalamet.

In addition, Paramount Pictures plans to greenlight family films, with classic movies like “The Goonies,” “Gremlins” and “Night at the Museum” as touchstones, Goldberg said. There’s also interest in R-rated comedies, horror and stories that appeal to Middle America.

Paramount has no plans to crank out low-cost films for its Paramount+ streaming platform, said Cindy Holland, the new head of streaming for Paramount.

“The movies that we make will be made for theatrical,” Ellison said, adding that there is cultural significance to making films for the big screen.

Ellison also praised actor Tom Cruise, whom he met when he founded his Skydance Media company in 2010. Skydance co-produced “Top Gun: Maverick” and recent “Mission: Impossible” installments. Goldberg recounted how she and Greenstein called Cruise after Paramount unveiled its new leadership structure.

“It was to thank him for, frankly, the huge piece he’s been in Paramount’s history, Paramount’s present and how important he is for Paramount’s future,” Goldberg said. “‘Top Gun 3’ is a massive priority for us.”

The new corporate ownership structure gives the family of Larry Ellison (David’s billionaire father) and RedBird the ability to build the company for the future, rather than manage for quarter-by-quarter earnings.

The Ellison family now owns 50% of the company, and RedBird holds 20% — a dominant position. Regular shareholders have 30% of the stock in the new company. Shares soared more than 36% on Wednesday to $15.

The event included Ellison’s co-investor, RedBird founder Gerry Cardinale, who stressed his confidence in Paramount’s prospects.

Cardinale noted that he dispatched two of his top executives to join the company — Andy Gordon, a former Goldman Sachs banker is now Paramount’s chief operating officer and chief strategy officer, and Jeff Shell, the former NBCUniversal executive who’s now Paramount‘s president — to signify the importance of rebuilding.

“I’m betting my firm and my career on this deal,” Cardinale said.

On Wednesday, longtime Paramount shareholder Mario Gabelli sued Redstone and Paramount, alleging the deal structure disadvantaged shareholders other than Redstone, who received a premium for her stock.

As part of the deal, the Redstone family was paid $2.4 billion for their National Amusements Inc. firm, which held the controlling shares. After their considerable debts are paid, the family should come away with $1.75 billion. Paramount’s B-class shareholders received $15 a share.

Skydance and RedBird have promised investors that it will find $2 billion in cost savings, which means further belt-tightening and layoffs. Shell said he didn’t want Paramount to become a company that had perpetual layoffs, saying the plan was to have one restructuring and “then be done with it.”

The executives also showed no interest in cleaving off the cable channels, unlike Comcast or Warner Bros. Discovery, which are preparing for spinoffs. Shell said the diminished status of the channels gives the company opportunities to rebuild those brands.

In their first week, Ellison and RedBird have made big bets. On Monday, the company said it would spend $7.7 billion over seven years to lock up U.S. streaming and television rights to UFC mixed-martial arts fights for the Paramount+ streaming service and CBS.

In addition, Paramount in July agreed to pay $1.25 billion over five years to the creators of Comedy Central’s “South Park.” A separate deal with Trey Parker and Matt Stone allows the cartoon to run exclusively on Paramount+.

When asked what Paramount assets were underappreciated, Ellison talked about the broad reach of CBS, which just ended the regular television season in first place in prime-time among broadcast networks for the 17th consecutive year. He also mentioned CBS’ relationship with the NFL, Masters golf tournament and NCAA March Madness.

Gordon added, “I actually think every asset is underappreciated here.”

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