Travel reviews

STROLLING the empty grounds of the “UK’s most beautiful castle”, I imagine myself as former resident Catherine of Aragon – minus the impractical clothing and messy divorce.

It was an autumnal Sunday morning after I had booked my family into one of the new Knights’ Retreat Lodges at Leeds Castle, near Maidstone in Kent, for the night.

The wooden lodges, named after mythical creatures such as Basilisk, Gryphon and Hippogriff, are built at the far end of the grounds, next to the children’s playground and falconry — an important detail for families when the grounds span 500 acres.

Our lodge slept five people, with a double bed in one room and three single beds decorated with cute shield pillows (available in the gift shop for a reasonable £14), plus a lounge area with a kitchenette and a bathroom. The lodges are a masterclass in small space management.

This allowed the adults to spend an enjoyable couple of hours chatting over a bottle of wine in the lounge, while the two boys battled it out in the bedroom with their shields.

Huge sandpit

But we weren’t there for chilling. Because a stay in the lodges gets you two-day access to Leeds Castle and its grounds, so we had to use our daylight hours wisely.

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First stop, the Knights’ Stronghold Playground, an enormous medieval-themed play area that is potentially the best “climbing frame” in the country. The four-storey castle has enough bridges, turrets, walkways, ziplines and slides to keep your child entertained for hours.

But we gave ourselves a strict two-hour time limit so we didn’t miss out on the rest of the action.

In the kids’ corner of the grounds, there is a huge sandpit almost as big as a small beach, an obstacle course and the birds-of-prey centre, which holds falconry shows featuring the resident hawks, falcons and owls.

The impressive show saw the handlers weaving through the crowd so that the birds were encouraged to whizz among us. They were so close that I had to duck on more than one occasion.

But the attraction that has been discussed most since our return to the commoner life is the maze, which was built in 1988 from 2,400 yew trees.

We were so bad in there that we had to ask for help to reach the middle. At that point, we were rewarded (for our cheating) with entrance to the magical underground grotto.

Thanks to back-to-back activities we’d worked up quite the appetite, so we took the woodland path over to the Castle View Restaurant for dinner.

We dined on classic dishes including ham hock terrine, rib-eye steak, chargrilled cauliflower and glazed pork chops, with a fantastic view of the castle all lit up at night.

Another brilliant thing about a stay in the Knights’ Retreat Lodges is you get access to the castle grounds before they open to the public. We took advantage of that with a magical hour’s stroll.

For the price of a night’s stay in a lodge that works out from £69 per person, it was quite something to have such a famous location to ourselves.

On the whole walk, we bumped into just two members of staff and got plenty of fantastic crowd-free pictures of ourselves outside the castle.

It also meant we were among the first inside the castle itself, so the four and six-year-olds in our company were able to exclaim loudly at obscure details in the lavish property, last decorated by Lady Baillie in the early 20th century.

As a rule, heritage properties don’t hold much interest for young boys, but Leeds Castle allows you to walk in among the items in many of the rooms instead of being roped off. You’re even encouraged to play a game of chess in the games room.

And at Christmas, they decorate the entire place, making it the perfect time to visit.

If you’re looking for some extra festive magic, they also have a Christmas Lights Trail, which runs until December 31, and features a small food market and fairground.

Even the great Catherine of Aragon would have been impressed.

LYING by the pool, white wine in hand, I wonder if the Seaside Palm Beach hotel might be the most beautiful resort I’ve ever stayed in.

In front of me, hundreds of wild palm trees — the tallest I’ve ever seen — sway in the afternoon breeze as canaries sing in the shade below.

The scene marked the start of a calm and relaxed weekend on the tranquil Spanish island of Gran Canaria, where temperatures can easily reach the 20s in the winter months.

Just a four-hour flight from the UK (costing less than £30 each way with easyJet from Luton), this trip was the ultimate warm oasis retreat . . . without the jet lag.

The 5-star hotel, situated on the south east coast in Maspalomas, is a haven of luxury.

The serene spa is home to a new sauna, cold plunge and hydrotherapy suite, where guests have the option to strip off completely for an authentic wellness experience.

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Small but buzzing

While my pal and I weren’t that brave, we did manage to plunge ourselves into the freezing ice bath (a welcome break from the October sunshine) before treating ourselves to a massage (99 euros for one dreamy hour) in the garden rooms, which have views of the botanical plants.

After a quick dip in the pool to wake ourselves up, we headed to the terrace for lunch of prawn caesar salad, calamari and homemade bread, with an ice-cold beer to wash it down.

Unlike most all-inclusive hotels I’ve stayed in, the Palm Beach offers guests the option to order lunch a la carte from the poolside restaurant as opposed to being stuck with just the buffet area, making it a much more intimate and luxurious experience.

Dinner was an equally impressive affair, with both a la carte and buffet options available on different nights.

Highlights included the Italian barbecue, with a homemade pasta station and a selection of fresh meat and fish grilled to order.

Outside of the hotel, local Italian restaurant il PosTo served us a delicious Neapolitan pizza for 18 euros, with a night cap of limoncello on the house.

The strip here is small but buzzing, with sunset beach bars lining the boardwalk, perfect for a pre-dinner cocktail with stunning views of the Atlantic ocean.

But the most impressive place we visited had to be the natural wonder of the Maspalomas sand dunes. This protected nature reserve is home to 400 hectares of desert-like dunes and lagoons.

A ten-minute walk from the hotel, it is the perfect place to explore in the early-evening golden hour when the heat of the day has died down.

For those wanting something a little more buzzy, the resort of Puerto Rico is a 20-minute drive south.

Here you’ll find shopping malls, discos and a wider selection of restaurants, as well as dozens of daily boat excursions to explore the local coastline.

For 40 euros, we hopped aboard Spirit of the Seas’ whale and dolphin watching tour — a 2.5-hour excursion with local experts who have worked on the sea here for 25 years.

We weren’t fortunate enough to see any marine mammals, but the company offers visitors a free voucher to go out again if there are no sightings — so it’s worth doing this excursion at the start of your trip to allow time to try again.

The next town along, Mogan, is also well worth a visit.

We paid a visit to the Hotel Cordial Mogan Playa, one of the grandest in the town, which offers day passes for 55 euros per adult and 27.50 euros for kids, including lunch.

The terracotta hotel blocks surround a garden spa featuring luxurious day beds, an outdoor heated hydrotherapy pool, hot tub and hot and cold foot spas.

After enjoying a fresh juice here, we tried the volcanic lava exfoliation treatment inside.

The 40-minute session started with a full-body exfoliation using black sand from the island’s northern beaches, followed by a massage using locally-sourced aromatic oils.

It was the perfect end to a three-day retreat — a break I will definitely want to repeat in the cold, dark winter months.