Eurostar

Writer Catherine Usher travelled by train to the pretty town of Troyes in the Champagne region, discovering art, history and – of course – the best bubbly

Troyes is only a 90-minute train ride from Paris but, compared to the capital, it’s a more compact and intimate location for a French mini-break. You’ll find atmospheric churches, attractive independent shops and chic museums, making it the ideal place to explore for a few days. Although it’s a very popular stop-off point for holidaymakers driving further south in France or onwards to Germany or Switzerland, a car isn’t a necessity. We travelled to Paris first via Eurostar –a much more environmentally-friendly option than flying – then took the train to Troyes. (It’s a 10-minute walk between Gare du Nord and Gare de l’Est in Paris.) Once in Troyes, we were able to explore much of the town on foot.

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What to do in Troyes

Troyes is a pretty city with lots of half-timbered buildings in the old town that were largely built in the 16th century. There are countless cobbled streets to wander down and the atmosphere is relaxed and friendly.

Two museums well worth taking a stroll around are the Musée d’Art Moderne and the Cite du Vitrail.

• The Modern Art Museum , located next to the cathedral, is home to paintings by artists such as Henri Matisse and André Derain. The sloping ceilings on the upper floor make it feel cosy and visitors can enjoy a sense of proximity to the artwork.
• The Cite du Vitrail is the stained glass museum and it is a wonderful, tranquil venue where you can immerse yourself in the elegance and beauty of stained glass. Located in an 18th century building, it explores stained glass from the Middle Ages to the present day and houses striking and memorable exhibits.

Making time for Champagne

Being in the heart of the Champagne region, discovering its most famous export is a must. Chassenay d’Arce champagne house in Ville-sur-Arce is about an hour’s drive from Troyes. It was founded in 1956 by five pioneers and the organisation is now made up of 130 families, with a focus on co-operation and knowledge-sharing.

Visiting its vast cellars and seeing how the bottles are produced is a real eye-opener, and the tasting workshop at the end of the tour is an obvious highlight for champagne connoisseurs and novices alike (see chassenay.com).

Troyes is a straightforward place to explore, but if you really want to find out about its history then a guided tour is a must. Hosted by Troyes La Champagne Tourisme, tours can be arranged for smaller or larger groups, of up to 30 people. Our host, Laura Dudek, was a well-informed, enthusiastic guide who tailored the experience to our interests, taking us to see many of the city’s ornate and impressive churches and cathedrals. For those who prefer to go it alone, you can explore with a City Pass, which includes an audioguide and admission to the museums.

Where to eat and drink

A flute of champagne is no doubt on the agenda for many visitors, and most of the bars and cafés have a variety of local brands to sample.

Octave is a sophisticated, rather understated restaurant located in the centre of Troyes with a beautiful courtyard, where you can enjoy dinner under the stars – usually joined by the friendly cat who lives nearby. The tapas style menu may look daunting at first glance, but the knowledgeable staff are happy to advise and we were very pleased with their recommendations.

For a speedy, fuss-free lunch while sightseeing, Tonton Farine is a welcoming bakery/canteen where everything is homemade. As it’s France, everything tastes more wholesome and delicious than a British equivalent. Most of the other customers looked like they were locals on their lunch break.

If you’re away from Troyes enjoying a champagne tour, Le Moussec in Les Riceys is a fabulous place to stop for lunch. The dishes are tasty and hearty, the restaurant is buzzing, which is always a good sign, and the staff are warm and attentive without being suffocating.

Where to stay

Two elegant boutique hotels, La Maison de Rhodes and Le Champ des Oiseaux, are located in adjoining medieval buildings and offer a combined 23 rooms. Owned and run by the same family, the welcoming hotels are a great base from which to explore the city.

Room categories and decor vary between the two properties, but guests share access to a range of amenities, such as a tranquil walled garden (we were getting Romeo and Juliet vibes), an outdoor heated pool and a small spa. The restaurant has an elegant yet homely ambiance and after your evening meal you can enjoy a nightcap in the moonlit garden. Once settled with a glass of wine, some nibbles and a book, it’s incredibly hard to drag yourself away.

How much does it cost?

Rooms at La Maison de Rhodes start from £245 and Le Champ des Oiseaux start from £174 per night on a B&B basis – see maisonderhodes.com. To book a tour of the town, see troyeslachampagne.com. Eurostar journeys between London and Paris start from £39 each way – see eurostar.com. Fares are all-inclusive with no hidden extras, children under four go free, and a Paris-London journey by Eurostar means 96% fewer CO2 emissions than travelling by plane.

Scott Manson documented his epic six-leg journey from Glasgow to mainland Europe’s southernmost point for his YouTube channel Planes, Trains, Everything – but faced endless setbacks

A YouTuber who embarked on an epic three-night, four-day odyssey from Glasgow to mainland Europe’s southernmost point was left gobsmacked upon arrival – only to discover the gates were locked.

Scott Manson, who presents the travel channel Planes, Trains, Everything, chronicled the mammoth six-leg expedition for his audience, billing it from the start as an extraordinary undertaking.

“I’m traveling from Glasgow to the southern tip of mainland Europe. Now, this is going to be a long, long journey. It’s going to take three nights and four days. There are six transportation legs. The first leg is Avanti West Coast down to London.”

His itinerary saw him travel from Glasgow to London Euston, then traverse the capital to St Pancras International for the Eurostar to Paris. From the French capital he pressed southward to Lyon, onwards to Barcelona, and subsequently to Madrid before boarding a long-distance coach to Algeciras.

A concluding local bus journey and stroll delivered him to Tarifa, widely acknowledged as mainland Europe’s southernmost extremity, reports Glasgow Live.

However, the expedition was anything but smooth sailing.

Scott disclosed the trip “nearly went totally belly up” following a catastrophic high-speed rail collision in Spain earlier this year. Referencing the tragedy, he explained: “One high-speed train jumped the tracks, landed on the opposite side, and was hit by a train heading in the opposite direction. Forty-five people were killed. Absolutely horrendous.”

Worried his connection might be axed, he consulted the Renfe website.

While tickets remained available initially, the evening before departing the UK he received an email stating: “Unfortunately, your train’s canceled. We apologize for the inconvenience.”

This left him frantically seeking an alternative for the vital Madrid to Algeciras stretch. Flying via Gibraltar was contemplated but ruled out as impractical and potentially costly, necessitating multiple connections and a border crossing.

Instead, he managed to book a nine-hour daytime coach – twice the duration of the train journey.

“It’s going to be horrendous, but it needs to be done,” he remarked, noting the alteration also delayed his arrival until 8pm, compelling him to postpone filming at his final destination.

The complications continued mounting. The Avanti service from Glasgow ran late, necessitating what he characterised as a hurried sprint across London.

His Eurostar seat was relocated to a “windowless window seat.” The Barcelona to Madrid train ran behind schedule.

Madrid’s weather turned “atrocious.” And the replacement train southbound was cancelled entirely.

Following all that, the ultimate disappointment awaited at Tarifa. Upon reaching the Spanish municipality, Scott headed towards Isla de Las Palomas, an island at the southern tip of Punta de Tarifa – the southernmost point of the Iberian Peninsula.

However, to Scott’s dismay, the area was cordoned off and accessible solely through guided tours. “Well, you spend three nights and four days travelling to the southernmost tip of the European mainland, and it’s shut,” he said.

“At least I’m not the only one who arrived thinking the place would be open. There are two Chinese tourists there. I can’t complain—they’ve travelled further than I have to get here—but I think it caught quite a few people off guard.”

He suggested strong winds might have rendered the exposed headland too dangerous. “But yeah, that’s as far as we can get.”

Despite the setback, Scott stayed positive. “For as long as I can recall making these YouTube videos, I’ve always felt there was a force pushing back, trying to stop me from completing videos. This was a prime example.”

Nevertheless, he maintained the experience was worthwhile. “But I am so glad I did this journey. I’m so glad you guys came along with me as well. I’ll see you next time.”

Epic train journey starts in London then passes through Paris, leading travellers to a beach in Spain with golden sand and a lively atmosphere

A stunning nine-hour rail journey that begins with the Eurostar in London and concludes on a breathtaking beach in Spain is sure to leave you mesmerised. The thrilling train adventure sets off from St Pancras station in London, whisking you away to the picturesque La Zurriola beach, nestled in the city of San Sebastián (Donostia) in Spain.

This charming beach is famed for its idyllic surroundings, golden shores, and superb surfing conditions, making it a favourite spot for both locals and holidaymakers. To reach this scenic beach in San Sebastián from London by rail, you’ll need to first board the Eurostar train from London St Pancras International to Paris Gare du Nord.

This leg of the journey takes roughly two hours and 15 minutes. From Paris, passengers can then jump onto a TGV train bound for Hendaye, which will take around five to six hours, reports the Express.

Upon reaching San Sebastián’s train station, you can opt for a bus or taxi ride to La Zurriola beach.

The beach is situated in the Gros district, which is within strolling distance from the train station, but it might be more practical to take a brief bus or taxi trip, particularly if you’re laden with luggage.

One visitor reviewed the seaside location on TripAdvisor, writing: “Visiting San Sebastián was truly unforgettable, especially with the breath-taking view of the Atlantic Ocean.

“The coastline is stunning, just a short walk from downtown, where you can surf, swim, or simply relax and soak in the soothing sounds of waves crashing on the shore.”

The beach boasts a vibrant ambience with a bustling promenade peppered with bars, eateries, and shops, creating a lively hub of activity.

The official tourism website for the region, San Sebastián Turismoa, described the area on their website: “The promenade running round the beach from Sagüés to the Kursaal ‘cubes’ continues on its way round Monte Urgull and along the Paseo Nuevo to end at the Peine del Viento sculpture on the Concha Bay.

“This spectacular city walk covers around six kilometres and offers spectacular sea views and delightful resting spots along the way.

“From the Zurriola, you can also make your way up to Monte Ulía, a green area only a moment’s walk from the city centre. A former look-out point for whales, Monte Ulía is the city’s best hillwalking option and follows part of the coastal route on the Way of Saint James.”

La Zurriola is renowned for being a top-notch surfing location in Europe. The beach regularly experiences powerful swells from the Bay of Biscay, drawing in surfers ranging from novices to seasoned pros.

Surf schools and hire shops are on hand to accommodate visitors keen to ride the waves or pick up the sport.

Beyond surfing, La Zurriola offers the chance to partake in other water sports such as bodyboarding and paddleboarding. The beach also occasionally plays host to beach volleyball tournaments and other leisure activities.

The most affordable ticket from St Pancras for 29 April currently stands at roughly £67 on Trainline.

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Eurostar offer an easy way to explore the continent without needing to hop on a plane, and a new rule change means it could become an even more convenient mode of travel

Eurostar has announced a change to its check-in rules at St. Pancras International in London in a bid to ease overcrowding and make journeys easier for passengers.

Currently, passengers taking a Eurostar train need to arrive at least 60 minutes before their journey and then have to wait in the departures area. However, the change will see passengers able to arrive just 30 minutes before their departure time.

The Telegraph reports that there are plans to allow passengers to board their Eurostar train as soon as it arrives at St Pancras, reducing crowding in the departures area. Speaking to the news outlet, Wendy Spinks, Chief Commercial Officer at London St Pancras Highspeed, said that she wanted the experience of taking the Eurostar to be more like a train journey than flying.

She said: “It cannot be the equivalent of an airport departure lounge. We see it being a really quick process. Going straight to the train is part of the plan. It has become too close to the airport experience, where you check in, go to security, wait in the lounge and then rush to the gate.”

The changes come as Eurostar prepares to expand its services, including the introduction of double-decker trains, as well as new direct routes to Frankfurt and Geneva, expected to launch from early 2030.

It’s also expected that by then, Virgin Trains and Italian operator Trenitalia will be offering rival services from St Pancras, challenging Eurostar’s monopoly on the Channel Tunnel route. Wendy went on to admit that bottlenecks in the departure areas were an obstacle to expanding these services and offering international trains from all five of its available platforms.

St Pancras has also recently needed to install new kiosks with the technology to run the EU’s entry and exit system (EES), which will be required at all external border crossing points by April 9.

Last summer, Eurostar and London St. Pancras Highspeed announced they were joining forces on an ambitious project to double the capacity of St Pancras station, enabling the historic building to handle 5,000 international passengers an hour.

Expected to cost £100m, the plans would improve the “international area and its connection to the main concourse, helping the passenger flow and customer experience” by the end of 2028. A further phase could see arriving passengers redirected to a lesser-used upstairs area, and this change is set to be completed by the end of 2030.

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Any new operators would share platforms with Eurostar, and passengers would need to make sure that they were boarding the correct train. However, it’s speculated that the expansion of St Pancras could cut check-in times to 15-minutes, meaning passengers could simply head straight to their service.

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A CHANGE to how you board the Eurostar is about to make it much easier to head over to Europe.

The international train operator has said they will cut boarding times by 30 minutes in an attempt to ease crowding at St Pancras station.

Currently, Eurostar passengers must check in an hour before boarding their train, where they they have to wait in departures.

According to The Telegraph, there are plans to allow passengers to board Eurostar trains as soon as they arrive at the station.

This would mean that passengers would be able to board up to half an hour before their train departs.

The hope is that this will allow people to arrive at St Pancras much closer to the time that their train is due to leave, as well as ease crowds.

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Wendy Spinks, chief commercial officer at London St Pancras High Speed, said that the process of boarding Eurostar had become too much like flying, when in reality it should be easier than an airport.

She added: “It has become too close to the airport experience, where you check in, go to security, wait in the lounge and then rush to the gate.

“You will always want some people to turn up a bit earlier so that you can process them and get them on board but at least 50 per cent of passengers should go straight to the train.”

Not only should train travel be less stressful, but it also allows passengers to go directly into the city centre, rather than an airport further out.

But she warned: “The more you go beyond two hours and start getting out to Germany or Geneva, say, then your time differential is harder against flying. If we shrink the time that you hang around in the station it cuts the end-to-end journey.”

The changes come amid the major renovation of St Pancras, ahead of the launch of new travel rivals Richard Branson‘s Virgin Trains and Trenitalia of Italy by 2030.

Ms Spinks also warned that the busy departures area is preventing any further growth of Eurostar, especially ahead of the new kiosks ahead of the new EU Entry/Exit System.

The St Pancras renovation – which is expected to cost around £100million – will hopefully free up space and could even cut waiting times to just 15 minutes.

Not only that, but a new ground floor layout would double the station’s current capacity to 5,000 passengers an hour.

The full renovation is set to be complete by the 2030s, which is also when the new additions of destinations such as Germany and Switzerland could be rolled out.

In other train news, UK’s busiest train station with 100million passengers finally gets go ahead for controversial £1.2billion expansion.

Plus, major UK train station shuts for nine days for ‘once in generation’ overhaul worth £8million.