Leeds Castle in Kent is said to be haunted by two black dogs and the ghost of a woman in a flowing dress – but this luxury overnight stay in Catherine of Aragon’s former home was worth every penny
I enjoyed a royal weekend at Leeds Castle(Image: Matthew King)
There’s something that feels slightly forbidden about strolling through the grounds of a castle after dark when all the day-trippers have departed. The ambience is somewhat spine-tingling, but it genuinely gives you a flavour of what existence must have been like within the walls of these enormous estates in centuries past.
That’s certainly how I felt during my overnight stay at Leeds Castle in Kent, frequently dubbed the Castle of Queens owing to the numerous female rulers who made it their residence. Its somewhat puzzling name derives from Saxon leader Led or Leed, who established the foundations for what would evolve into Leeds Castle, constructing a timber structure on two islands in the centre of the River Len.
This modest wooden dwelling was eventually superseded by a stone stronghold, and through the centuries it expanded into the magnificent castle that subsequently became the residence of Henry VIII’s first spouse, Catherine of Aragon. Yet with that illustrious heritage comes stories of hauntings, the most well-known local myth being spectral encounters with two black dogs, believed to be linked to a previous occupant supposedly involved in witchcraft.
There are also accounts of a phantom in a long flowing dress roaming through the chambers. However, I’m pleased to report that no such spirits disturbed my slumber, and I managed to achieve a solid eight hours of rest in a comfortable four-poster bed.
Our accommodation was situated in the Stable Courtyard, and alongside a beautiful canopied bed, it featured a soaking tub, lake views, and a minibar filled with local delicacies. Certainly worth risking a ghostly encounter for.
Leeds Castle also provides accommodation in its Maiden’s Tower, formerly home to Catherine of Aragon’s ladies-in-waiting, as well as cottages and riverside lodges positioned at the water’s edge. Throughout the day, guests can explore the castle and grounds, and you’ll notice plenty of families braving the elements and enjoying strolls through the magnificently landscaped gardens, but once the gates shut, the ambience becomes tranquil and peaceful.
That evening, we dined at the Castle View restaurant. Located just across the river from the castle, it boasts a vast floor-to-ceiling window that enables you to admire it illuminated at night.
There’s an outdoor terrace which I imagine is stunning during the summer months as you’d be able to watch the sunset whilst dining. The restaurant’s menu features simple, comforting classics with an emphasis on seasonal ingredients and locally-sourced produce.
We were drawn to everything from fish and chips to homemade pies, with my husband ultimately selecting a ribeye steak – which was ‘perfectly’ medium rare in his opinion – whilst I went for the special of cod with chorizo and a butterbean stew. The fish was beautifully flaky and delicate, complementing the robust beans perfectly.
We also sampled a bottle of Pinot Noir from Wildshark Vineyard, located just a few minutes from the castle. My previous encounters with English wine haven’t always been positive, and I’m still resentful about an extortionately-priced bottle that resembled fizzy vinegar, but this red wine may have won me over.
It was velvety, packed with fruity notes, and crucially, I didn’t suffer my typical red wine headache despite consuming half the bottle.
Following a comfortable, spectre-free evening, we tucked into breakfast in the restaurant, which offers a respectable continental buffet alongside hot dishes including a full English and eggs royale. Upon checking out, guests are still welcome to explore the castle for the remainder of the day, so we packed up the car and wrapped up warm to venture out for a wander.
Whilst the castle dates back centuries, its final private owner was Lady Olive Baillie, who is credited with restoring much of the historic property in the 1920s. She also transformed it into somewhat of a party destination, with the elite of transatlantic society, politics, and culture amongst its notable guests.
From Winston Churchill to Charlie Chaplin, numerous famous faces have resided here. Enthusiasts of vintage fashion and style will relish exploring Lady Baillie’s rooms where items from her beaded gowns to chic 1920s shoes and record player are displayed. If you’re a fan of Downton Abbey, you’ll certainly recognise those vibes.
Returning to the grounds, we attempted, and became lost in, the hedge maze. In my defence, it was drizzling with rain, and I likely would have had more patience on a sunny day.
Admitting defeat, we instead visited the birds of prey centre, which featured stunning owls and eagles, and discovered some entertaining family-friendly activities such as adventure playgrounds. There’s even an artificial beach where children can construct sandcastles.
Once again, definitely one for the summer to-do list. And with a 9-hole golf course overlooking the castle, it’s remarkable how much there is to do just moments from your room.
Spending the night at Leeds Castle is truly a memorable experience. It’s rare to find yourself waking up within the grounds of a historic castle, and an overnight stay makes you feel connected to its rich past.
The castle’s team are exceptional, from the warm reception at arrival to the prompt, friendly restaurant staff and knowledgeable guides who patiently shared the building’s fascinating story – it’s evident the castle is being brilliantly cared for in its current chapter.
Rooms at the Stable Courtyard start from £134 per night. For more information and to make a reservation, visit leeds-castle.com.
