Egypt is known for its bounteous history, incredible architecture and stunning Nile River – but there’s a hidden side to the country, as Jess Phillips found out during a recent trip
Between the haze of desert dust kicked up by the row of quad bikes in front of me and the glowing orange of the setting sun against the horizon, it’s easy to miss the rapidly approaching ocean, those last dying rays of sunlight reflecting off the rolling waves.
I’d be forgiven, I’m sure, for not quite expecting to stumble across the Red Sea in the middle of the desert.
Regardless, that’s exactly what happened when I found myself riding a quad bike through the Marsa Alam sands. Our group pulled up to the shore to look for shells and coral, and for a moment, it felt as though I was on another planet entirely.
Let’s back up for a second. Before last year, I’d never even heard of Marsa Alam. I’m ashamed to say that I couldn’t have pointed it out on a map if you’d paid me for the pleasure.
Now, however, all of that has changed. I genuinely feel as though I discovered one of Egypt’s best-kept secrets after jetting off from London Gatwick on a direct TUI flight to Marsa Alam International – the country’s first privately owned and operated international airport, which opened in 2003.
Marsa Alam is a burgeoning coastal resort catering to tourists from around the world. The area is still actively developing – though that definitely doesn’t mean it’s lacking in things to do – and offers the best of both worlds: incredible beaches, perfect blue water, and the more traditional Egyptian desert experiences.
Though the flight itself was over five hours, the transfer time to my hotel was gratifyingly brief – a mere 15 minutes by TUI-operated minibus. Having arrived at night, it was impossible to make out much of the surrounding scenery as we entered the hotel complex.
The Jaz hotel group is a giant in Egypt. You’ll find their properties tucked away in every nook and cranny. My destination was the Jaz Elite Amara, one of TUI’s all-inclusive offerings for UK visitors. Boasting seven public pools and 18 swim-up rooms, the hotel’s water theme hits straight from the lobby, where you’ll find quietly tinkling fountains as soon as you step through the doors.
Bright and early the next morning, I was ready to experience everything Marsa had to offer. Situated on the coast of the Red Sea, I’d already managed to grab a glimpse of the ocean on my first night, but seeing those turquoise waters up close was truly something else. So how better than to start my trip with a bout of snorkelling, taking off from the nearby resort town of Port Ghalib?
TUI’s snorkelling excursions take off from the port town and take visitors out onto the Red Sea by boat, before stopping over the gorgeous coral reefs to allow intrepid adventurers to spot dugong – better known as sea cows – and turtles frolicking in the clear blue water.
The highlight of my trip to Marsa Alam, however? Exploring the desert.
I headed off on another TUI excursion, a 20-minute drive from the Amara, over to The Camel Yard. The desert safari company offers everything from quad biking and buggy driving to traditional Bedouin experiences, and I was ready for it all.
Our group started off by getting kitted out for the journey – you’ll want to bring sunglasses due to the dust, but the company does provide goggles and scarves to keep the sand out of your face.
Prior to this, I’d never ridden a quad bike, but our instructor – who joyfully told us to refer to him as ‘habibi’, meaning ‘my friend’ in Arabic – made it simple, showing us how to start the engines and accelerate and brake. The bikes don’t have gears, so it was a totally freeing feeling to push the throttle across the dunes and in wide, arcing circles with the rest of my group.
After around an hour and a half on the bikes, with stops by the sea and in the dunes to see the incredible landscape, we headed back to the main tent for our Bedouin evening. If I was impressed by the desert itself, that was nothing compared to learning about the traditional pharmaceutical practices of the nomadic Arab tribes who traverse the desert by camel.
We sampled wellness blends containing eucalyptus to menthol crystals, which did wonders for clearing out the airways, along with spritzing ourselves with Egyptian perfumes, all available to purchase in glass bottles afterwards.
The night was far from over, however, as the desert excursion also included an incredible buffet meal consisting of roast lamb, chicken and an epic array of Egyptian salads, all with a strong blend of spices that made even the blandest foods – potatoes, cucumber, bread – stand out as a new favourite.
While we ate, we were entertained by a belly dancer and the whirling of the Tanoura. Afterwards, we trooped outside to enjoy some stargazing in the pitch black of the night, where Jupiter and Saturn were clearly visible through a telescope.
There was something truly magical about standing under the night sky, with Orion’s Belt and the Big Dipper both visible in the sky. Far from the light pollution of cities like Cairo and Luxor, Marsa Alam felt like an undisturbed paradise, one which transformed from looking like something out of an old episode of Star Trek in the daytime to an ethereal expanse of unbroken sands in the moonlight.
I can sum up Marsa Alam in two simple words – majestic and otherworldly. You’ll find something incredible around every corner, away from the hustle and bustle of city bazaars and ancient Egyptian ruins.
TUI’s all-inclusive bundles are perfect to get a feel for the area, with plenty of excursions and activities to keep you occupied while you explore the hotel complex.
I’d go back in a heartbeat.
Book it
TUI offers weekly flights to Marsa Alam from London Gatwick Airport during winter, as well as its trips to Sharm el-Sheikh, Hurghada, Luxor and Cairo. TUI Hotels & Resorts has 57 hotels with more than 17,100 rooms across Egypt.
TUI offers a seven-night holiday to Marsa Alam staying at 5T Jaz Elite Amara on an all-inclusive basis from £1,371 per person. Price is based on two adults sharing a Superior Double Room with Limited Sea View and Balcony departing from London Gatwick Airport on the 19 of April 2026 with 20kgs luggage included. To find out more about this holiday or to book go to tui.co.uk.
The Marsa Alam snorkeling excursion costs £62 for adults and £31 for children.
Quad Bike Morning Safari with Bedouin Tea Tasting | TUI Musement costs £43 for a shared tour.