It might be hard to believe, but this month marks 20 years since Miles Raymond — Paul Giamatti’s character in the 2003 Academy Award-winning movie “Sideways” — threw a fit about drinking Merlot. We all know what happened next: Merlot sales plummeted (and still haven’t quite recovered), Pinot Noir sales soared and the Santa Ynez Valley became a beloved destination for wine-focused getaways. The allure is understandable — it’s a relatively short travel time from Los Angeles and has a laid-back, approachable feel, a pleasing pastoral landscape and exceptional food and wine.

A good bit of “Sideways” was filmed in Buellton, one of the Santa Ynez Valley’s six towns. It sits just off Highway 101, making it easy to bypass as you turn toward its well-branded Danish-themed neighbor, Solvang, to the east. This may be especially true now that Buellton’s famed roadside eatery, Pea Soup Andersen’s, shuttered in January just shy of its 100th birthday.

I, too, bypassed Buellton back in May with my two teenage and pre-teen sons in tow. But they had no patience in Solvang for the long lines, meandering couples on romantic outings or European flair. (They made exceptions for many Danish sweet treats, though.) Last month I discovered that Buellton, a surprisingly family-friendly destination, is more their speed. I’ve taken note.

Apparently, this tendency to overlook Buellton is just history on repeat. From 1949 to 1964, Buellton was known as “Service Town, U.S.A,” a thriving stop on Highway 101, a hub for gas and other services for travelers headed up and down Highway 101 between Los Angeles and San Francisco. When the main route was taken out of downtown Buellton in a 1964 freeway remodel, business slowed.

In the following decades, Buellton kept doing its thing as a center for ranching and growing as a hub for the burgeoning wine region. It explains the slightly industrial look. Or as local winemaker Colin McNany of MarBeso Wine says: “Buellton is the bellybutton of California. It’s centrally located, slightly awkward and highly necessary.”

The beauty of anniversaries is that you get to revisit what makes something great and discover new dimensions in the process. “Sideways” nostalgia brought me back to Buellton, and after spending a few days there, I fell for “Service Town, U.S.A.” As you’d expect in a locale steeped in the broader Santa Ynez Valley culture of food and wine making, even the local 76 gas station had some seriously delicious oak-grilled tri-tip sandwiches, burgers and burritos that you’d never expect to find between the drip coffee, Takis and beef jerky. (And, if you need some morning brew, head straight to Little King Coffee.)

All this to say, I urge those looking for shady wineries, a break from the crowds, incredible food and loads of unique adventures to revisit Buellton and do the same.