What are the new retinol rules?
The EU has passed new legislation which limits the amount of retinol that can be used in off-the-shelf skincare.
Face and hand products can’t contain more than 0.3% retinol, while body products are restricted to just 0.05% (both down from 1%).
Anything stronger will be phased out from the end of this year, with a three-year grace period.
If you’re wondering why this affects us after Brexit, it’s because the UK chooses to follow lots of EU legislation.
Has retinol suddenly been outed as dangerous?
No, the new rules are designed to reduce the well-known risk of overexposure to vitamin A, of which retinol is a derivative.
“Vitamin A is vital for things like immunity, skin health and vision, but too much can lead to toxicity and issues like osteoporosis and liver damage,” says Dr Priya Verma, GP and aesthetic doctor at The Phi Clinic.
“It’s important to note that diet and supplements are by far the major sources of vitamin A, while the amount absorbed by skincare is much lower.
“The new rules are looking at a ‘worst case’ approach: the minority of people already consuming excess Vitamin A who add to their exposure via excessive overuse of topical retinol.
“If you’ve been using a 0.3%-plus retinol from a reputable brand, and following the directions, it’s extremely unlikely to be a cause for concern.”
Will my retinol products be less effective in future?
“Not at all,” says Dr Shotter.
““For many people, 0.3% is a good, effective concentration.” adds Dr Halliley.
“Even lower concentrations can be highly effective. Efficacy is not solely down to a retinol product’s strength, but how it’s formulated, the ingredients it’s paired with, and how it’s absorbed.”
Formulations above 0.3% will still be available on prescription. “
If you need these higher levels for skin conditions like acne, see a professional.
Alternatively, consider ‘dermatology to your door’ services like GetHarley.com and And Begin, which can prescribe appropriate retinoids via online consultation.
These six super vitamin A products already pass the new regs
No7 Pure Retinol, Vitamin C & SPF 30 Day Cream, £39.95
A slow-release 0.1% retinol: good for newbies, and ensures you’re wearing vital SPF.
The Ordinary Retinol 0.2% in Squalane, £7.40
A very accessible way to try retinol.
Skinsense 0.3% Retinol Serum, £39
A double-encapsulated delivery system drip-feeds the new max strength into skin.
Medik8 Crystal Retinal, from £45
Fast-acting, in various strengths and, like all retinals, is unaffected by the new rules.
Dr Sam’s Flawless Nightly Pro, £60
Granactive retinoid (aka HPR) plus niacinamide and bakuchiol for potency without irritation.
And Begin Serum In A Cream, £39.99
Offers prescription-only tretinoin at a level picked for you via an online derm consultation.