In my mind, the debates over the status of the Baja California-style fish taco in Los Angeles might come down to simple geography. Fish tacos just taste better, truer, the closer you are to the shore. This unscientific theory springs to mind when tasting the fish taco at Tigre’s Fuego, a casual storefront taquería with a counter and a few stools. Well-known to coastal locals, this spot is a beacon for taco excellence for the beach cities of the South Bay.
Chef Jimmy Tapia, a Culver City native, and the restaurateurs behind Baran’s 2239 offer a short menu of tacos, burritos and ceviches; fans are especially fond of Fuego’s Peruvian-style ceviche and the weekends-only breakfast burrito. I’ve enjoyed the carne asada taco on flour, topped with frijoles de la olla. Then, despite my honor as a border native, I ventured to try the fish taco. It works. Beer-battered cod in a soft corn tortilla is adorned with the standards of pico de gallo and cabbage, crema and a “fuego sauce.” The taco achieves that laidback Rosarito Beach feeling but with that unspecific Alta Californian confidence. I guess it helps that the sands of Redondo are just around the corner.