Each K-barbecue restaurant has its own take on what must be one of the best full-tilt ways to share a meal — primal and modern, elemental and lavish, continually changing.
New restaurants serving Korean barbecue open apace in always-transmuting Koreatown, and the latest include K-Team BBQ, the new Park’s BBQ sibling on Vermont Avenue, and Origin, which has taken over the Chapman Plaza location of Baekjeong (expected to resurface in a palatial L.A. flagship later this year). But long-standing icons keep diners coming back for their charcoal-fueled grills, attentive service, signature cuts or AYCE combos.
“Korean barbecue is becoming more like just regular barbecue” in its prevalence, said Jenee Kim of Park’s BBQ. “It’s not a Korean[-only] restaurant anymore. There’s other nationalities of people opening Korean barbecue. … I think Korean barbecue is becoming like that.”
Keeping up with what’s on trend is sport. Hanwoo beef at Daedo Sikdang, or dry-aged beef at ABSteak by Chef Akira Back, or yet more prime beef at Jeong Yuk Jeon Korean BBQ. The fatty, tender patties of tteok-galbi at Origin. The cheese fondue dipping sauce at Mun.
Do you prefer pink pickled radish wrappers, or rice paper wrappers? Wang galbi, LA galbi, tong galbi, yang-nyeom galbi or “bomb” galbi? Or maybe the litmus test for your favorite Korean barbecue is among the banchan. Which restaurant serves the best gyenran-jjim steamed egg? The best corn cheese?
Which ones have the best Katy Perry-free soundtrack? Which have the best ventilation? Here’s the thing: There is the perfect Korean barbecue spot for anyone and everyone, whether you love bulgogi or tripe, thick- or thin-cut pork belly, lengua or even duck, chicken or seafood. The world is your oyster — or your prime cut of beef.