The pancake on the beef roll at Pine & Crane is thin enough to be transparent in certain patches, the hoisin sauce painted underneath just visible. It’s more like sturdy chun bing than a scallion pancake, chewy, pliable but still crisp. The beef rolled inside is tender and flavored primarily with five spice, though the star anise and fennel are balanced out by the sweetness of the hoisin. Matchsticks of sliced cucumber crowd the sandwich, with about as much vegetable as there is meat. And there’s a healthy dose of fresh cilantro as well. It’s a messy roll, with the entire thing coming apart at about bite three, but it’s more than worth a few stains on your shirt.