Dazzling outfits often steal the limelight at any Diwali gathering. Here are some of the different types and how they look in all their glory.
Also known as the Festival of Lights, Diwali lauds the victory of good over evil in welcoming the new year.
And one way to honour a fresh start is with a fresh wardrobe.
While the celebration is open to all, Diwali has deep roots in India and the region’s iconic style follows its diasporas around the world and takes full display during the festive season.
We asked textiles and fashion designer Rashmita Bardalai, based at RMIT University, to break down the different outfit types we typically see during Diwali.
We also asked you, our audience, to share your looks from this year’s celebrations — and you delivered.
Here’s your Diwali style glossary and gallery.
Saree
Saree, also spelled as sari, is a long one-piece drape — usually about metres — that is usually worn over a pair of leggings or a petticoat.
The drape is tucked into the waistband of the petticoat or leggings before being wrapped around the waist so it can hang neatly in place.
A generous length of the fabric is then pleated by hand to create a lovely accordion pattern, visible from the front.
The remaining fabric is then slung over the shoulder, usually on the left side, and can sometimes be pleated again so it hovers above the ground.
This prevents the saree from getting dragged around and sustaining damage.
A choli — a cropped blouse — is usually worn underneath the saree, leaving the midriff exposed.
Dr Bardalai says: “It’s one of the oldest unstitched garments from ancient India, mentioned in the scriptures long back, around the BC [era].
“Different parts of India would be known for different types of sarees,” she says, varying in textiles, embroidery designs and the way they are draped.
“When somebody wears a saree, they would normally wear one from their region, and that showcases where they come from and the rich heritage they belong to.”
In many villages and rural towns in India, the saree is a common everyday wear but a thinner, more breathable material is preferred and in simple, plain designs.
Aside from being made of different textiles, Dr Bardalai says the style has remained largely the same, despite being around for many centuries.
But the iconic drape has received global attention over the years.
Designer brands Alexander McQueen and Chanel both unveiled saree-inspired pieces down the runway in 2008 and 2012 respectively.
According to Dr Bardalai, “the interconnectedness of the world” has given rise to Indo-Western fusion which sees modern takes on Indian clothing.
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Lehenga choli
The lehenga choli is a skirt and top combo.
A lehenga is a gathered skirt that gives off a drape effect — fitted around the waist — usually embroidered or woven intricately. It ends promptly at the ankle.
Choli is known for its cropped style, but designers can get creative with how the sleeves, neckline and back take shape or form.
The two-piece set can be mono or multi-coloured, with elaborate embroidery patterns sewn using silver or golden thread.
For added shine, they can sometimes be embellished with bevelled stones or sequins that glisten under the light.
The lehenga choli is often accompanied by a long piece of cloth, called a dupatta.
The dupatta can take after the same material as the lehenga choli and be made of silk or satin for a glossy, more luxurious finish, or chiffon for a softer touch.
It can be designed in either a matching or complementary pattern or colour as the lehenga choli.
It is popular in Northern India, Dr Bardalai says, where it “is heavily borrowed from the Mughal culture”, the dynasty that ruled most of the region from the early 16th to mid-18th century.
Salwar kameez
The salwar kameez is a two-piece suit hailed for its versatility as it’s wearable by anyone and for any occasion.
A kameez is a long tunic that comes in various lengths.
A salwar is a pair of trousers, tapered at the end to wrap snugly around the ankles.
It’s the salwar’s legging-like or trouser-like fit that makes it “commonly worn and popular for everyday wear because it fits an active lifestyle and is easy to move around in,” says Dr Bardalai.
“It can also be dressed up or dressed down.
“It can be made with intricate and exquisite textiles and techniques for occasion wear or simple and plain printed fabrics for everyday wear.”
Some people complete the full look with a dupatta, styling it in various ways as one would with a scarf.
It can be loosely wrapped around the head or worn as a trail when slung around the front of the neck.
A common go-to look is having it thrown over one shoulder.
While safety pins can be used to keep the dupatta in place, some people would prefer having the cloth rest on their forearms.
That way, they can hold it up to pull off a more natural, elegant appearance.
Cotton is preferred for everyday wear, whereas ones made of silk are reserved for special occasions and feature more intricate and colourful designs, often lined with gold or silver threading.
The salwar kameez also umbrellas a variety of other designs such as the anarkali, kurti and kurta.
Anarkali
An anarkali is like a long kameez that flows down to the ankles.
The word anarkali loosely translates to “blossoming pomegranate” and it’s easy to see how the garment got the name.
Snatched at the waist but flared towards the bottom, the flattering cut has the ability to accentuate one’s figure — comparable to a modern-day dress.
It is then paired with a complementary salwar but some people would prefer to go without it, because of how long the kameez runs.
Like the lehenga choli, it came into existence during the Mughal empire, which introduced stitched garments to the northern region, before spreading to the rest of India, says Dr Bardalai.
“It was one of the preferred types of clothing for the royalty.”
But that has changed over time and it is now accessible to anyone and everyone.
An open back design is also popular among those who opt for a spicy twist to the modest wear.
Kurti and Kurta
Similar to a kameez, kurti and kurta are both tunics but with one main distinguishing feature – the length.
Kurtas are usually long and cut off around the calve.
Kurtis are much shorter and end around the waistline.
Either way, they are often paired with a matching salwar. Jeans and pants are also common alternatives.
The set can be paired with traditional jackets or waistcoats for an elevated and more structured look.
Sherwani
A sherwani is a long coat-like garment, traditionally worn by men.
They’re typically adorned with intricate embellishments.
It can be worn on its own or over a kurta, making it the perfect wear for colder climates.
For that reason, it can be heavy and more suited for special occasions.
They are especially preferred for weddings.
Keeping culture going through fashion
While styles and designs may have changed over the years, Dr Bardalai says the formats of the garbs have remained the same.
A consistent feature is the use of gold or silver threadings for embroidery work, even if they may not be made of actual gold or silver.
“The significance of gold [and silver] comes from the royal era where it’s seen as a sign of prosperity — having wealth as well as inviting wealth.”
This selection of jewellery that accompanies the festive outfits is also intentional.
Accessories such as bangles, earrings and necklaces need to be carefully curated as they can reflect one’s marital status.
“Diwali is a time to dress up and wear colourful combinations of accessories to pair with the outfits,” says Dr Bardalai.
“The Indian community love their attires and urban areas see traditional clothes being paired with modern day apparels,” and festive occasions “provide enough of a reason to dress up,” she says.
She believes Diwali is an occasion to “rejoice in the Festival of Lights while adorning oneself in vibrant attire”.
“It is also a crucial element of Indian heritage and culture that signifies resilience and vigour”.
“Knowing your roots — where you come from — and embracing your traditions and culture will give you wings to fly.”