A little over a decade later in 1936, Bob Wian opened Bob’s Pantry in Glendale, where he created the “double-deck hamburger” with two beef patties and a middle bun in between. Renamed Bob’s Big Boy, Wian’s carhop drive-in opened a second, still-standing location in Burbank in 1938.
Rumored to have been inspired by Wian’s success, the first McDonald’s opened on Route 66 in San Bernardino in 1940.
On the south side of town, James Henry Hawkins arrived in Watts from Arkansas and opened his eponymous Hawkins food stand in 1939. The joint quickly became known for its juicy, satiating burgers, and today Hawkins House of Burgers is run by Cynthia Hawkins, one of Hawkins’ 14 children.
In Jefferson Park, Lovie Yancey and her then-husband opened the first Fatburger in 1947, originally called Mr. Fatburger. When they divorced in 1952, she kept the burger stand and dropped the “Mr.,” popularizing burgers that could be customized with additional patties and ingredients.
And of course, one of the most recognizable names in L.A.’s burger history: In-N-Out opened its first drive-thru in Baldwin Park in 1948.
“I grew up eating Fatburger, Master Burger, Best Burger — any little joint with a big, thick burger,” said Jay Wolfe, who opened Thicc Burger in the Original Farmers Market this September. “It’s super nostalgic for me and knowing the role that Black women have played in the history of Fatburger and Hawkins, I just want to keep that legacy going.”
(Mel Melcon/Los Angeles Times)
Route 66 has since expanded into indomitable freeways, but the burger maintains its hold over Southern California, and arguably, the world. Today’s burgers take inspiration from this history and incorporate all the international flavors and diasporic flair that defines L.A’s eating.
In addition to bulky behemoths that tower with ingredients like bacon, chili, pastrami and more, smashburgers with thin griddled patties now dominate the scene, including Oklahoma-style renditions with thin-sliced onions that are seared into the burger and cooked in its juices. You’ll find fancy gourmet versions at some of L.A.’s best restaurants as well as worthy vegetarian contenders, often with house-made patties.
Some of the most noteworthy burgers require planning ahead, including a couple that are only offered on happy hour menus or one day a week. From South L.A. to Venice, West Hollywood, Koreatown, San Gabriel Valley and Orange County, here are 33 of our favorite burgers in Southern California. — Danielle Dorsey