Sun. Nov 10th, 2024
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It is longer than walking from Sydney to Brisbane, and it passes giant trees, pristine rivers and sparkling blue oceans.

Described as one of the world’s most beautiful long-distance hiking trails, the Bibbulmun Track in southern Western Australia draws thousands of hikers from across the globe.

Walking along a long stretch of rugged coastline among 60-metre-high karri trees is a rare experience for hikers.

Starting in the Perth hills, the track winds through the farmland and forests of the South West region, before finishing along the coast of the Southern Ocean.

The track in its modern form was officially opened on September 13, 1998, with its 25th anniversary being celebrated this year.

A map showing a trail running down south-west WA.
The Bibbulmun Track stretches from Kalamunda in Perth’s east to Albany.(Supplied)

The Bibbulmun Track Foundation’s Steve Sertis has just hiked the full length of the track in two months as part of a group marking the anniversary.

He said the track was a special place for all those who walked it. 

“The scenery, the wildlife, the people are amazing,” Mr Sertis said.

“My passion for it started more than 25 years ago. I love being out in the bush.

“I love to see people’s faces when they see their first sunrise on the track, or a certain view, or a kangaroo bounding across the track.”

Mr Sertis paid tribute to the “army of volunteers” who maintained the track.

“It’s so special this track and it’s right on our doorstep … thanks to all those who look after it,” he said.

Albany coastline with wind farm in background

The 1,000km track meanders through the Albany Wind Farm before terminating in central Albany.(ABC Radio Perth: Gian De Poloni)

Hanging up the boots after 14,000km

Having hiked the track end-to-end 14 times, few people knew the track better than 87-year-old Jim Freeman.

Mr Freeman began walking on the trail in the 1970s, long before its completion.

It started out with a few curious hikes along part of the track with his sons and became a decade-spanning obsession.

A man in a green jumper stands before a tree

Jim Freeman has completed the Bibbulmun Track 14 times.(ABC Great Southern: Jamie Thannoo)

“To my sorrow, I found out that first time you don’t walk in work boots, or you’ll get blisters,” Mr Freeman said.

“The boys didn’t like it, but I’ve had a few adventures since then.”

Born and raised in the country, Mr Freeman described himself as a “bushy at heart”.

He completed his final end-to-end last year.

The reason? He could not end on unlucky 13.

“Maybe a bit of superstition, but it was another excuse to get out there and walk,” Mr Freeman said.

Finding solitude in the South West

Seeing the wildlife and vistas of the track is the highlight for some. For others it is the people you meet along the way.

“Some people you stop with, they might be lonely, and you talk to them for half an hour,” Mr Freeman said.

“They’re all of like mind. They all want to walk the track and have similar mindsets.”

While he enjoyed meeting fellow hikers, for Mr Freeman it was the peace and quiet of the wilderness he treasured most.

“It was good, the silence. It was good to be by yourself,” he said.

“I”ve done the walk once with 30 other people but I prefer to walk by myself. It’s a lot less trouble.”

A man in hiking gear on a bush path.

Jim Freeman pictured hiking during 1996.(Supplied: Jim Freeman)

Witnessing track changes

In his time hiking the trail, Mr Freeman has seen his hobby grow in popularity and the number of volunteers who dedicate their time to looking after the track rise to more than 300.

“There’s a lot more people walking the track now. I’ve walked the whole track before and seen no one,” he said.

“There was no telephone before. If something happened, well, just bad luck. You just lay there until someone came along.”

Hikers on a forres trail

A giant Karri tree on the Bibblumun Track near Walpole.(Supplied: Bibbulmun Track Foundation)

With new technology and equipment, treks have become safer and easier.

“Over the years the gear, your boots, your sleeping bag, your rain jackets … it’s all become lighter,” Mr Freeman said.

“Also your cooking gear, we used to use steel billies. They were pretty heavy.

“Now you can buy tucker that’s already dehydrated for you.”

While his days walking end-to-end are over, Mr Freeman still volunteers with the Bibbulmun Track Foundation, providing advice for trekkers taking on the challenge.

When the foundation celebrated the track’s 25 years last Wednesday, he was among the list of volunteers recognised with an Honorary Life Membership.

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