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Warnings for surfers and sightseers with up to 8m swell forecast off southern WA

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Sightseers and surfers have been warned to take extra care, with waves of up to eight metres forecast to pound communities along WA’s southern coast today.

The Bureau of Meteorology (BOM) is forecasting a 7-8m swell from Augusta to Albany as a low pressure system in the Southern Ocean moves east. 

The cold front associated will bring rainfall and blustery conditions to much of southern WA.

BOM senior meteorologist Joey Rawson said the low was fuelling the large swell. 

“[There is] quite an intense low pressure system well to the south of WA. It’s going to drive some pretty big swells to reach the south coast,” he said.

“[We are] expecting them to peak around 7m on Thursday into Friday, and potentially a bit bigger up to 8m.

“It’s going to come with a lot of wind. If you’re on the coast, it’s not going to be pleasant conditions.”

The Gap near Albany is a popular spot for sightseers during storms.()

A gale wind warning is likely to be issued for the southern coastline on Thursday.

Safety concerns

The swell will continue east, impacting South Australia and Victoria in coming days. 

Albany Sea Rescue Squad coordinator Chris Johns said no-one should be headed out on the water in those conditions.

The coastline near Albany is one of the state’s most dangerous.

Mr Johns said the biggest safety concern was for people heading to tourist hotspots such as Salmon Holes or The Gap to view the rough seas.  

“Our coastline is stunning. When it’s cranking like this, people get out there to see it and sometimes get too close,” he said.

A 7-8m swell will hit Western Australia’s south coast and make its way further east. ()

Swell to pack a punch for surfers

University of WA lecturer Rob Holt, who has a PhD in surfing, said the forecast swell was exciting for surfers but conditions would be rough.

The swell might spark up offshore breaks like The Right near Walpole.()

“Surfers along the whole south coast of Australia are anticipating this,” he said.

“It’s pretty extreme, it’s getting to the edge of the peak we’d ever get down here.

“You see the fury of the ocean this time of year, the way it manifests with these giant swells.”

Rob Holt says surfers are keeping a keen eye on conditions.()

Dr Holt said the swell might create messy conditions at reef or beach breaks but could spark up offshore slabs such as the world-famous The Right.

“We’ve had some big wells but with these low pressure systems, the way they traverse the planet, they just punch out these incredible swells that radiate out into these giant storms,” he said.

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