The country reopened for tourism in October, all but predetermining a flood of travel in 2023. Yes, screeds will be written by December about how no one wants to see any more shots of noodle bowls and tonkatsu in their social media feeds. For now, though, glimpses into one of the world’s most thrilling culinary destinations still feel uplifting.

I spent a week in Tokyo in March as part of a story about the city’s influence on L.A.’s evolving sushi culture, particularly some of our best omakase chefs and their inspired return to fundamentals. It was part of an all-in project by the Food team covering all things sushi in Los Angeles.

But I couldn’t not eat and drink broadly and with abandon in Tokyo. Let me state clearly: I claim no expertise in the city’s foodways. What I have is the privilege of discerning Japanese friends on the ground in both Tokyo and Los Angeles, who graciously offered guidance at every turn. I thank them profoundly, and it seems fair to pass some of that generosity along.

Any experience or research into Tokyo reveals two swift realities: There are a million ways to eat well, and reservations at in-demand restaurants are a cutthroat sport. Plan as far ahead as possible, enlist a hotel concierge to help with bookings weeks out and know that it’s totally fine if you can’t get into the three-star temples you were mooning over. I didn’t, and I can’t stop thinking about how staggering my trip was.

“Jiro Dreams of Sushi” cemented in the world’s mind that Tokyo is a seat of shokunin — craftspeople who devote themselves entirely to their chosen field, always intent on mastery and improvement. The city is definitely a place to chase obsessions: Mine include tea, coffee, tempura and pizza, and I encountered greatness.

Consider this, then, a very personal rundown: There’s no ramen, no izakaya, no French luminaries. It’s one way to embark on a place that can overwhelm with choice. Note that I’d include Koji Kimura’s singular eight-seat sushi bar, which I wrote about extensively in my Tokyo-L.A. essay, but his restaurant is currently closed while he opens a second location in Shanghai. Keep an eye out for his return, and plot a reservation accordingly.

This is your guide to what the best sushi city in America has to offer, from the ultimate California roll to spectacular omakase.