Tue. Jul 9th, 2024
Occasional Digest - a story for you

The French Riviera is most often thought of as a summer destination, but the truth is, the region is also the perfect choice for an off-season break. We asked five Nice Côte d’Azur residents what they like to do once the summer crowds disappear. From hiking and skiing to taking it easy with some great food and wine, here are their insider tips …

The Lac des Mille Fonts
The Vésubie river in the Mercantour national park.
Ibex in Mercantour national park

Marvel at nature in Mercantour national park
It’s too hot to hike during the day in the summer months, so an autumn trip to the Mercantour park is ideal, with daytime temperatures averaging around 20C in September and October. “Nice is the gateway to some great hikes since it’s easy to get into the mountains and perched villages of the arrière-pays [hinterland],” says outdoor expert Robert Deschamps. “The Mercantour is a national park, so has strict rules about putting up a tent – it has to be an hour’s walk from the entrance or nearest roadway and you can’t set up before 7pm – but it’s great just to head up to the Madone de Fenestre, which can be done in a day. There’s a lake, a chapel, an old refuge with ibex, chamois and probably quite a few other hikers heading up to the fenestre col [peak].”

Isola 2000 ski resort.
Skiing in the alps.
La Gordolasque river in Mercantour national park

Breakfast at the seaside and late lunch on Nice’s secret slopes
“When people think of holidays in Nice, they don’t usually think about skiing!” says Brigitte Landes, who has lived in the city since she was a child. “Nice has three amazing resorts within a two-hour drive of the beaches – Valberg, Auron and Isola 2000. The quickest way to reach them is by car, however, there are other cheap and easy ways to get there that not everyone knows about.” Auron is probably the most family-friendly ski station – it has a Famille Plus label – with a cinema, heated swimming pool, and a snow trail for winter runners. If you don’t have a car, buses run between Nice and all three resorts for only €1.50 all-year-round. And from December to April, 100% Neige buses provide shuttle services from Nice to Auron and Isola 2000 for €12 return, with discounts for ski-equipment hire once you are there. “I love the idea of sitting on the beach in the morning and skiing down a slope in the afternoon,” says Landes.

A couple walking on the beach in Nice.
La Coulée Verte on the Promenade du Paillon.
Le Negresco hotel on the Promenade des Anglais.

Winter like Queen Victoria
While Nice has gained a reputation as a top summer destination, its popularity began in the late 19th century as a winter resort – and last year, it was declared a Unesco world heritage site because of its status as the “winter resort town of the Riviera”.

“The city was known as le petit Paris d’hiver [little winter Paris] and if you wander round the musicians’ quarter between the seafront Promenade des Anglais and the railway station, some of the belle epoque mansions still bear the name: ‘Winter Palace,’” says local history buff Eddie Louis. “Russian tsars, Queen Victoria, Nietzsche, Chekhov, Apollinaire, Lenin and Nabokov – they all spent winters in Nice! Even if it’s a bit chilly, the sky is always deep blue,” he adds.

Another cause for celebration are recent moves to make the city more green. “We’ve got three tram lines that replaced the polluting bus routes,” says Louis. “There are cycle lanes appearing everywhere, and what used to be the heavily built-up coach station has been turned into a park – a huge swathe of green full of sculptures, rare trees, carnations and of course, little dogs.”

Cycling in the hills.
Villefranche-sur-Mer.
Women swimming in the sea at sunset.

  • Swimmers can enjoy the Baie des Anges, while cyclists can tackle the Col d’Èze, sometimes part of the Tour de France

Indulge in adrenaline activities in the cooler months
With its scenic coastline, surrounding hills and warm sea, Nice Côte d’Azur is the ideal destination for an autumn activity holiday. “This whole area and climate are perfect for multiple sports, with long stretches of settled weather,” says Nice-based triathlete Michael Stannard. “For running and cycling, flat, hilly, or mixed courses are all at hand. And as for swimming, watching the sunrise over the hills to the east as you swim across Nice’s Baie des Anges is really something special.” Cyclists are also well catered for. “Café du Cycliste on the port rents carbon-framed racing bikes and equipment by the day,” says Stannard, for anyone wanting to head to the hills. More comfortable as a spectator? Then you’re in luck. Nice is also home to France’s National Museum of Sport, and hosts Ironman France, the Paris-Nice cycle race, the Nice Open tennis tournament and the Prom’ Classic run. This year’s Marathon des Alpes-Maritimes, from Nice to Cannes, takes place on 30 October – and registration is still open.

Salade niçoise: a regional classic.

Feast on the best of autumn’s harvest
Nice has two of the region’s best fresh-produce markets, and it takes an expert to know what to buy and where to buy it. “Cours Saleya market is great for people who are visiting Nice for the first time because it’s near the sea, colourful and it also allows them to visit the old town,” says Rosa Jackson, who runs Les Petits Farçis cooking school in Nice and offers tours to both markets. “Libération [in the north of Nice] is more of a locals’ market; it has a larger selection of fish and a broader range of products for people who are really into food and cooking and would like to explore a little more off the beaten path. I personally love the feel that it’s a little bit more like Paris, with the broad boulevards and 19th-century buildings.” Jackson teaches the cuisine of Nice, which has a strong Italian influence and celebrates the merits of every season. “I love spring because of all the variety of vegetables, but winter cooking is also great for people who love slow-cooked dishes and spending more time in the kitchen with something simmering away in pots.”

Discover a new side to the south of France with an off-season trip to Nice Côte d’Azur. With EasyJet flights from various UK airports, it’s never been easier to catch some autumn/winter sun. Find out more at easyjet.com and explorenicecotedazur.com

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