Sat. Jul 6th, 2024
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Throwing a lamb chop on the barbie is about as Australian as it gets, but many are seeking out alternative sources of protein amid growing concerns over food security, animal welfare and the environment. 

So what if you could sink your teeth into a juicy lamb rump that had been grown in a lab?

Melbourne start-up Magic Valley has managed to cultivate meat using a small sample of skin cells taken from, Lucy the Lamb, whom the company assures is still roaming happily in her paddock. 

Lucy’s cells were placed in a mixture of water, amino acids and other nutrients and grown in a large container called a bioreactor, before being harvested and formed into meat. 

Magic Valley founder Paul Bevan said the “unstructured” product is like a mince found in sausages and burgers, which will be produced on a small scale for restaurants and the food service industry within 12-18 months, pending regulatory approval.

The long-term goal is “structured” products like lamb chops, steaks and strips, which the company is aiming to have on Australian supermarket shelves in two to three years.

Wraps containing lamb
The lamb product still needs regulatory approval before it can be sold in restaurants and supermarkets.(Supplied: Magic Valley)

So does it actually taste like meat?

“The taste profile is, for all intents and purposes, identical to a traditional lamb product,” Mr Bevan said.

“The mouth feel and texture we’re still working on refining and obviously that becomes a little bit more important when we get to the structured products.

“But the prototypes we’ve created caramelise just like traditional lamb when you are cooking it and so we’re hopeful that we’re pretty close.”

A scientist pictured from behind with test tubes and other equipment
It is possible to leave out less desirable properties found in meat if it is cultivated in a lab. (Supplied: Magic Valley)

The end game is lamb that has the same taste, flavour and texture as the quintessential Aussie meat, while optimising its “nutritional profile”. 

“For example, we might be able to add a higher protein content, additional omega-3, vitamins, and remove some of the less desirable properties like saturated fats and inflammatory properties,” Mr Bevan said. 

Industry still faces many hurdles

However, the proof will be in the pudding, as many barriers still need to be overcome before the average Australian household can add cultivated, also known as cultured, cellular and no-kill meat, to their shopping lists.

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Should meat grown in a lab be called meat?

When images of the world’s first lab-grown burger were beamed around the globe almost a decade ago, it paved the way for one of the biggest ever shake-ups in the food production industry.

But while scientists have since made great headway in improving the technology, none have managed to crack the toughest nut faced by the nascent industry – how to scale the technology to achieve mass production while making it price competitive with animal-sourced protein.

The industry remains vague on how much cultivated meat will cost as they work furiously behind the scenes to bring the price tag down. 

But it’s safe to say it will be a fair bit more expensive than traditional meat and Australian consumers can expect to pay fine-dining restaurant prices if they want the enjoy the novelty of eating meat produced this way – at least for the first couple of years.

A scientist examines meat in a Petri dish
The cost of producing meat this way is still a major barrier to commercialisation and industry growth.(Adobe Stock)

Export opportunities for Australia

Another Australian company, Vow, has taken a significant step toward manufacturing cultivated meat products at scale after building the world’s second commercial cultured meat factory, in Alexandria in Sydney’s inner-west.

Vow co-founder George Peppou said the factory, which will open in the coming weeks, will start off making products for export to countries like Singapore and the United States, with high-end restaurants their first target market.

A steak on a slab with formulas written all around it
It remains to be seen whether a nation of meat lovers embraces the kind made in a laboratory. (ABC News: Stephan Hammat/Adobe Stock)

“Australia is not going to be one of the fastest markets to be taking up cultured meat for lots of reasons, but what I do think is really exciting is we are already a big protein exporter,” Mr Peppou said.

“In the same way we export a lot of our animal protein, we can become a really major cultured protein exporter as well and that for me is the really compelling opportunity.”

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Aussie start-up claims to have cracked the taste factor in factory-grown meat

Mr Peppou anticipates Australia’s top ten export markets for beef and lamb, including China, Japan and the middle east, will also be big markets for alternative protein.

Tapping into the Australian market will be slower as a nation of meat eaters comes to terms with eating protein cultured in a Petri dish, while regulatory hurdles also need to be overcome.

Vow will launch a product in Singapore by the end of the year before it hopes to move into the restaurant scene in Australia in the first half of 2023.

Mr Peppou said the company is aiming to get its products onto supermarket shelves in Australia in two to three years’ time. 

Reinventing food from the ground up

Mr Peppou said the company is not aiming to re-create traditional forms of meat, instead building up a “cell library” from undomesticated species including kangaroo, buffalo, alpaca and even crocodile to create a “new category of food”.

It works by taking a biopsy about the size of an almond from the animal and isolating the stem cells that are responsible for creating the building blocks in meat – fat cells, muscle cells and connective tissue.

A photo of food in a fancy dish
Sydney-based company Vow has created a variety of meats from undomesticated animals. (Supplied: Vow)

Those cells are fed into a cultivator and exposed to a nutrient-rich mixture, which convinces them they are still in the animal and causes them to multiply to form what is biologically the same as meat, without slaughtering any animals.

“If we have the technology that can create any meat from cells, we see no need to restrict ourselves to the animals we have traditionally eaten,” Mr Peppou said.

“We are exploring the biodiversity that exists on the planet by going out and sourcing biopsies from animals that would never be produced industrially and storing them in a library to create an unlimited range of products.”

Cow-free dairy made in a lab

Australian Bureau of Statistics data shows many Australians are already embracing a vegetarian or at least flexitarian diet, with the amount of dairy and meat substitutes purchased from supermarkets and other food retailers jumping 28 per cent between 2018-2019 and 2020-2021. 

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